First Look: Victory Sandwich Bar in Inman Park

Victory Sandwich Bar in Inman Park is one of those hipster fast casual concepts that blends simple decor and cheap eats with a healthy dose of irony.

As you should surmise from the name, Victory serves sandwiches -- instead of, say, burritos or pizza -- and the full bar is a mainstay of the business.

The look: Co-owner Ian Jones said the idea was to make the former Johnny's Pizza space look like "Steve McQueen's sandwich shop." The "Tao of Steve" is expressed as something like a retro-industrial rumpus room. Reclaimed wood on the walls, plywood tables, bent steel park benches, a stack of vintage stereo equipment, a punching bag and a motorbike are all part of the yin and yang.

The scene: So far, according to Jones, the crowds are a surprisingly diverse mix of neighborhood regulars, bargain lunch hunters, late-night snackers and drinkers, and even some soccer moms and kids on the weekends. During a recent sunny afternoon visit, the rustic bistro-style patio was the place to be.

The menu: Victory features nine daily sandwiches, plus a couple of snacks and specials. Sized between a slider and a half-sandwich, most are $4, with potato chips. The Castro is a pressed mini Cuban, with roasted pork, ham, fontina cheese, pickles and yellow mustard. The New Bomb Turk layers turkey breast, arugula, avocado and Baconnaise. A recent special, Smokin' Trout ($5), mixes smoked trout, Greek yogurt, capers and radish salad.

The drinks: Look for lots of beer in cans, from classic tallboys to crafty Dale's Pale Ale. Instead of culinary cocktails, you'll find '50s-style highballs and the likes of Jack and Coke or Mexican apple soda slushies served in jelly jars.

The extras: Check out the pingpong table in back and spy action or surf movies projected on the white cinder-block wall in front. The owners favor garage rock in the dining room. But the bathroom has its own sound system, featuring cheesy Kenny G-type selections. Best of all, if you hear a Michael Bolton song while you're "in there," you can claim a free beer at the bar.

Dining out

Victory Sandwich Bar

11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays.

Sandwiches, snacks and specials, $4-$8.

280 Elizabeth St., Atlanta, 770-676-7287, www.vicsandwich.com.