Chef Billy Allin and his wife, Kristin, opened Cakes & Ale in a modest Ponce storefront in 2008. From the start, the funky neighborhood spot had the convivial feel of a much older establishment — which is why some regulars wondered and worried about a recent move to larger digs on Decatur Square.
But Allin, who’s quickly become one of Atlanta’s culinary stars, not to mention a two-time James Beard nominee for Best Chef Southeast, said that after three and a half years, he believed his clientele was ready for “a more grown-up experience.” Certainly, he was ready for a bigger, better kitchen.
The look: Siebler Design, Inc. was charged with retaining the warmth of the original location. In addition to the old chalk board, muted grays and browns, unfinished wood floors, myriad windows and a soaring skylight work to create a subtle, airy atmosphere. A large corner bar area serves as both an entry point and busy gathering place; the adjoining dining room offers a calmer retreat.
The scene: Early one Saturday night, the bar was buzzing and most seats were filled, but the noise level was surprisingly contained. Several date-night couples leaned over round cafe tables near the front windows, sipping wine and chatting, while others sunk into a comfort zone of puffy banquettes.
The menu: Longtime Cakes & Ale devotees may need a minute to adjust to the new space, but Allin's ingredient-driven cooking will be immediately recognizable. Favorites remain, including arancini with citrus and fennel pollen ($6) and fried okra with ranch dressing ($9). Recent additions to the seasonal menu include a salad of squash, melon and goat and ricotta cheese, with pumpkin seeds and aged balsamic vinegar ($10), and tapenade-topped swordfish, with peppers, onions, artichokes and tomatoes ($27).
The drinks: Corina Darold is still the familiar face behind the bar, whipping up concoctions such as the Big Apple, with Leopold's apple whiskey, Barolo Chinato and bitters ($10). As always, the beer list is small but imaginative, with large format Belgian bottles and the likes of Stone IPA ($6) on draft. A smart selection of value-priced wines by the glass, carafe or bottle ranges from $7 to $68.
The extras: Next door, the new Bakery at Cakes & Ale is turning out bread and desserts for the restaurant, as well as retail sales. It's also open for breakfast, lunch and coffee. David Sweeney, the former chef/owner of Dynamic Dish, oversees the Bakery's weekday lunch menu of soups, salads and sandwiches.
Dining out
Cakes & Ale, Decatur
Dinner: 6-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5:30-10:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Bar and dessert until midnight Fridays-Saturdays. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays.
Starters and small plates, $4-$14; entrees, $23-$31; sides, $4-$5; coffee and desserts, $3-$8.
155 Sycamore St., Decatur, 404-377-7994, cakesandalerestaurant.com
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