Cafe Agora is the kind of quirky, hole-in-the-wall place that’s getting more difficult to find in Atlanta. Serving up Turkish, Greek and Mediterranean cuisine under the banner “Good food/ Real people,” it’s something of an odd remnant of the old party-hearty Buckhead.
Open until 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s become the sort of early morning hangover-reducing equivalent of the New York City slice joint or the London curry shop. But Agora can be almost as animated on weekdays, when regulars stop by to chow down on generous gyros and meet business associates for lunch.
On a recent afternoon, as a pair of stylishly dressed young women arrived to grab a takeaway order, one was heard to comment: “I’m looking forward to trying this again. I really don’t remember eating it the other night.”
The marketplace
As the menu points out, Agora is the Greek word for a gathering place, especially a marketplace. Here, though, the narrow storefront space has a slightly psychedelic aura, never dreamt of by the ancients. White stucco walls are covered with bright red and gold architectural accents. Dangling chandeliers and beaded curtains add to the kitschy blare. Then there’s the collection of candy-apple-red bucket seat bar stools.
Ordering can be as confusing as the surroundings. There’s a glowing glass case filled with enticing appetizers and desserts. And full color photos of many menu items are posted behind the counter. But if you want to see what they all cost, you’ll need to ask for a printed menu.
Mixed maza
Starters, all priced at $4.99, are worth sampling. And the mixed maza platter ($7.99 small/ $12.20 large) is great for sharing, piled with hummus, eggplant salad, babaganush, ezme and piyaz, plus a daily special or two, all served with bits of pita bread.
Hummus is a smooth, tangy blend of chick peas, rich with olive oil, garlic and tahini. Oven-roasted eggplant becomes a hearty salad, mixed with peppers, garlic, herbs, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Ezme is a sweetish blend of shredded carrots, yogurt, mayonnaise and dill. But the tzatziki is most addictive. The thick, dill-flavored yogurt sauce is not only great on sandwiches, but, slathered on some pita, it perks up the other offerings on the maza platter.
Gyros, kebabs and beer
The lamb and beef gyro is a staple, with juicy, marinated slices of roasted meat wrapped in warm, fluffy pita, with cool shredded lettuce and tzatziki. The Agora mixed grill ($14.95), served with rice, bulgur, salad and bread, is a feast of kebabs — char-grilled chicken and lamb, and two kinds of seasoned ground lamb.
There’s also savory spinach and feta pies, and super-sweet pastries and cakes, including crispy-gooey baklava, and traditional Turkish rice pudding.
And if you’re still in the mood to party, the bar beckons with a ragtag display of liquor bottles, as well as wine and cold American and Turkish beer.
Cafe Agora, 262 E Paces Ferry Road N.E., Atlanta, 404-949-0900
Signature dish: Gyros and shish kebabs
Entree prices: $7.50-$16.95
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays. 11 a.m.-4 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays.
Reservations: No
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.cafeagora.com
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