Fried chicken? Why stop there? I mean, we Southerners are known for frying everything but shoe leather (hang on – I think I had a great uncle who did that). Chicken is only the beginning to the fried options Atlanta has to offer. Here's a lineup of local favorites of the frite kind. Currently. My mind is bound to change in a day or so. (Note that Hugh Acheson's fried okra at Five & Ten, which is seasonal, and Shaun Doty's Berkshire pork schnitzel, at Shaun's, which is a signature, are not on the list. I've retired their numbers out of sheer homage.)
112 Krog St., Atlanta. 404-524-8280,
Kevin Rathbun's eponymous restaurant continues its reign as one of the city's most popular spots. Is it the kitchen's sea scallop Benedict over country ham grits? The always-fun eggplant steak fries, cut thick, crisp-edged and covered in confectioner's sugar? Absodanglutely. But veer from your favorites here for just a moment and try the fried kefalatori cheese, seared in the pan with lots of lemon juice, Greek style. Ooey, gooey, bubbled and browned — and one of the menu's best-kept secrets. It's also proof that in addition to his innate ability to please just about every taste, Rathbun can also cook with polished discernment.
40 Seventh St. N.E., Atlanta. 404-347-9555,
Ecco is like leather: it only gets better with age. The charcuterie offerings, fine cheeses and balanced wine list always entice, but sometimes its hard not to just sip a glass of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Tenuta Castiglioni and an order of the fried goat cheese with honey and a sprinkling of black pepper. One bite offers a tasty tour of sweet, then acidic, with the flavor of the fried batter giving way to creamy softness in the center of each little orb.
764 Miami Circle N.E., Atlanta. 404-846-0449,
Mojitos and madness are what bring flocks of folks to the lunacy that is Eclipse di Luna night after night, weekend after weekend. But the reason they keep coming back? Darned good tapas. When I crave fried calamari, I'm actually craving Luna's calamares fritos, jacked up with spicy, chunky salsa.
6470 Spalding Drive, Suite B, Norcross. 770-242-0078,
Masas de cerdo: Imagine generous chunks of pork marinated with mojo sauce and garlic, then deep-fried and served with a Cuban mojo sauce and lime, smothered in onions. The meat becomes so tender it shreds under the gentlest of nudges from the fork.
Food 101 (Morningside)
1397 N. Highland Ave., Atlanta. 404-347-9747,
Chef — and now owner — Ron Eyester is busy sprucing things up for the official opening of Food 101's transformation to Rosebud on July 6. But longtime fans of the restaurant, no matter the name, can still expect the homespun-yet-well-bred favorites they know and love. Part of the chef's Monday night "breakfast for dinner" menu is a fried chicken sandwich with scrambled eggs, bacon and cheese (called the Big Nasty). It's your calorie count for the day, and it's worth it.
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