This decadent Midtown grilled cheese also offers a crab fix

The crabmeat grilled cheese sandwich at Poor Calvin's is a study in decadence.
The crabmeat grilled cheese sandwich at Poor Calvin's is a study in decadence.

Credit: Henri Hollis

Credit: Henri Hollis

Dish of the Week: Crabmeat grilled cheese at Poor Calvin’s

If you love crab, the indulgent crabmeat grilled cheese sandwich at Poor Calvin's is a dish you absolutely should get.

While the sweet, tender crabmeat in this sandwich is easily the dominant ingredient, the second might be butter. The thick slices of white bread — lightly toasted on the exterior but fluffy and absorbent inside — have soaked up quite a bit of Julia Child’s favorite ingredient. Anthony Bourdain famously explained that restaurant food tastes better than home-cooked because they use so much more butter. In the case of Poor Calvin’s crabmeat grilled cheese, it’s best not to think about it, and just luxuriate in the rich flavors. After all, it’s not that different from dipping crab legs in a ramekin of drawn butter.

The best thing about this grilled cheese sandwich actually is the relatively restrained use of cheese. The ingredient scale definitely tips toward crab, and much of the cheese is broiled onto the top of the sandwich, so the seafood and cheese interact less than you’d expect. The two ingredients play together much nicer with a slice of buttery toast between them.

Altogether, the combination makes for one of the most decadent sandwiches you could hope to eat. It’s not cheap for a sandwich, but, served with fries and a side salad, it’s still a good value at $18. Just close your eyes, don’t think too hard about it, and let your taste buds frolic with the crab in a river of butter.

Poor Calvin’s. 510 Piedmont Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-254-4051, poorcalvins.com.