Dark, sweet caramelized onions top the patty, which is the unquestioned star of the show. A blend of Halperns’ brisket, short rib and chuck makes this burger taste a lot more like an old-fashioned hamburger steak, and it’s perfectly cooked at medium-well. It makes for a juicy, messy sandwich, but you wouldn’t want a patty melt any other way.
You’ll pay handsomely for the privilege of enjoying this old-school sandwich — it’s $18, though it is served with house-made pickles and excellent fries. But, if you make a reservation at 9 Mile Station, you can save the $15 charge to get onto the rooftop. It’s a worthwhile investment to discover that, at some places, they do still make things like they used to — sometimes, even better.