DISH OF THE WEEK: Flan at Cuba Mia
Open little more than a month, Cuba Mia joins the ever-growing roster of ethnic restaurants on Buford Highway. You'll find this one at 3979 Buford Highway, among the cluster of eateries in Crossroads Village, near the intersection at Clairmont.
Hungry tummies in search of Cuban cuisine will find satisfaction enough with its Cuban sandwich (I'd prefer it with just a wee bit more mustard); combo plates like the Ropa Vieja Platter with moist shredded steak alongside black beans and rice; and deep-fried finger foods such as shrimp empanadas, chicken croquettes or cubed yuca.
No matter what you order, save room for the flan.
The pale yellow custard is perfectly set: neither too jiggly nor too dense. Each spoonful is silky and creamy - absolutely luscious.
Cuba Mia gets the caramel sauce right, too, at least to my taste buds. An undercooked sauce can taste purely of sugar, while an overcooked one tastes, well, burnt. In both instances, they can ruin an otherwise fine flan. Here, though, the sauce is yanked off the heat at the right moment, sporting a pretty amber hue and mellowed sweetness.
Perhaps I'm in the minority, but I'm not a fan of flan doused in sauce. Luckily, Cuba Mia keeps thing moderate with just a little puddle atop the dessert.
Flan may be a simple combination of eggs, sugar and milk, but when made with care and attention, as at Cuba Mia, it's a revelation.
Cuba Mia. 3979 Buford Highway NE, Chamblee. 404-228-2537, cubamiaatlanta.com.
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