Lusca restaurant review, Atlanta

In tomorrow's AJC, I have a review of Lusca , the new Brookwood Hills restaurant from the folks behind East Atlanta's Octopus Bar. I gave it a grade of 3 stars.

At first glance, it may seem like things don’t quite jibe at Lusca. There’s a lot going on here. But this one’s worth a second look.

Lusca doesn’t have the edge of sister restaurant Octopus Bar, but it isn’t the place for a traditional three-course meal. The fare reflects the varied cooking experience of co-owners Angus Brown and Nhan Le and comes together as a melange of Mediterranean-inspired seafood, boutique oysters, nigiri, charcuterie and an assortment of “turf” dishes.

Simple preparations and crafty pairings dominate here. Slippery smooth uni ($24) bounces its metallic fragrance off the buttery goodness of an eggy tagliatelle with nips of bacon and breadcrumbs for texture. Overlapping circles of thinly shaved kohlrabi ($8) settle in with sleek strips of white anchovy, creamy blots of Saint Agur blue cheese and whole pistachios.

At first glance, I wondered if Lusca could synchronize so many moving parts. I wondered if it would work. But, quirks and all, it just does.

You can read the full review on myajc.com .

Also check out our photo gallery from Lusca for an inside look at the restaurant and more dishes.

-- by Jenny Turknett, Atlanta Restaurant Scene blog

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