Gunshow reconsidered

In today's paper I have another look at Gunshow , Kevin Gillespie's unusual restaurant where chefs hand deliver their own creations in a bright, noisy space that looks more like a cafeteria than a fine dining establishment. There are some potential deal breakers for many diners here: the lack of creature comforts, the high prices, the perfunctory wine list and a service style that encourages folks to share plates without the benefit of serving spoons.

Yeah, yeah.

I kind of love the wacky sense of freedom from convention, and I think Gillespie is cooking at the top of his game. While I don't expect everyone feels this way (and I've already heard from some fervent dissenters), I would recommend that everyone who likes the theater of restaurant dining should give this place a spin.