Avondale Estates is one of Atlanta's neighborhoods that is rooted in families. Generations have lived in the town since the 1920s. It's been one year since The Bishop, one of the neighborhood's family-owned restaurants, opened. Luellen Marshall is owner and operator with her husband Marcus. The pair named the restaurant after their 11-year-old son Bishop, who was named after his great grandfather. Here we chat with Luellen about both Bishops- the restaurant and her son.
Credit: Alexa Lampasona
Credit: Alexa Lampasona
How did family inspire you to pursue a career in restaurants?
My father was a doctor, but my mother was involved in food. She was an "everything from scratch" woman. Every meal was an elaborate production, especially on holidays, so I grew up with an understanding of wine and food. My mother and I would plan menus and décor, and she taught me how to set a table. It cracks me up when I meet people who don't know how to set a table. I think, didn't your mother ever teach you how to do this? Then I realize that my mom was so adamant about it. Food was very much a part of my DNA.
Has that love of food tranferred to your son Bishop?
Bishop definitely has the hospitality gene. He likes to show the restaurant off to his friends, and by show off, I mean he’ll bring them in and make me buy them lunch. But that’s how we connected every day when I was working so much this past year. Now that the restaurant has been open for one year, Bishop asks me every day how the sales are and how the restaurant is doing.
What’s an example of Bishop’s growth over the past year as he’s been around the restaurant?
He’s become a capitalist. He was our Easter bunny this year, and I planned to pay him minimum wage, but he bargained with me and asked for $8.50 an hour. His reasoning was, “well, do you have anyone else to do it? I’m worth $8.50.”
How have you divided your time between raising Bishop and managing the restaurant through its opening year?
My husband and I engaged Bishop at every level. That’s probably why he’s asking me about sales. We called 2014 the year of sacrifice. We had to downsize; we sat down at the family table and talked about what the next 18 months would look like. We told him there would be sacrifices, but he was willing to do it.
What are some of those sacrifices that your family makes being in the industry?
Most of the kids at Bishop’s school went on spring break, and we didn’t go. I’m sure his pride has been nipped a little bit. But Bishop has been supportive and we’ve worked around our schedule. I’ll work in the morning, then pick up Bishop after school and spend a few hours with him before I go back to work for dinner service. And then he calls me every night when he’s going to bed.
Would you support your son if he owned and operated a restaurant?
Bishop is a very bright 11 year-old. If he did pursue a career in the industry, he needs to go about it in a more structured way; get a degree and work his way up. To succeed, you have to work from the bottom up. You have to know people, but at the same time, this industry is intuitive- you know what great food and service are.
You’ve said Avondale is a family community. In what ways?
Avondale is a unique, charming community. I’ve lived all over, and I’ve found generations of families stay here. The city is having a resurgence now. But we’re walking a fine line: People want to protect the city, but how do we keep the historic element, but also grow and keep it relevant. Avondale has a small town feel, but the convenience of easy access to the city.
How does chef Zach influence the menu?
Marcus went to Culinary Institute of America, but I don’t have professional training. While we both know our way around the kitchen, cooking is an art. Marcus and I have have to work at it, but chef Zach is remarkable. We give him ideas and he comes up with his own ideas of it. It’s simple, delicious good food, but we’re not fine dining. You won’t find a lot of ingredients in our dish, but we never sacrifice on the quality of those ingredients. For instance, we serve Brasstown Beef, Springer Mountain Chicken and Pine Street Market sausage. With good ingredients, you can’t mess that up.
How have you felt about the restaurant’s first year?
It’s been very rewarding. As a restauranteur, you don’t do this to get rich, you do it because you want to give. Nothing makes me happier than to have employees happy and the guests to say our food was the best they ever had.
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