Scattered throughout the dish, the plentiful Jonah crab (a relative of stone crab) is tender and sweet. The chunks are so large that you might mistake a piece of crab for some gnocchi, a happy surprise if there ever was one. The gnocchi isn’t just a vehicle for the crab, either. It’s made in-house, with the right ratio of potato to flour. The individual pieces melt in your mouth, with none of the chewiness of the store-bought stuff.
Even more flavor and color come from the winter vegetables studded throughout the dish’s cream sauce. Bright orange butternut squash and green celeriac, bolstered by celery leaves and bright-green chive oil, give the plate a rather summery palate, while lending the earthy note you expect in early winter. It’s an addictive combination that’s rich, without being heavy, and luxurious, without being pretentious.