Life in Biloxi along the Mississippi Gulf Coast changed for good in 1992 when the state legalized dockside gaming. Gambling became legit, as long as it took place on the water. The big waterfront resort hotels moved in, with casino barges in tow. It was a godsend for a place that was almost washed off the map during 1969's devastating Hurricane Camille, a storm that took years to recover from.
The local economy boomed as Biloxi became a go-to destination for gamblers from all over the Southeast. Then, another direct hit from another devastating hurricane occurred in 2005, when Katrina stormed ashore. Once again, residents had to pick up the pieces and move forward.
After another difficult and costly rebuilding process, Biloxi was back in business. The casinos reopened and the gamblers returned. But the Mississippi coast isn't all about gaming. There's plenty to do for those who aren't interested in rolling the dice. And for those looking for something do between turns at the slots and tables, Biloxi has some culture and history waiting for you.
Don't Miss
Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art
The Ohr-O'Keefe Museum was under construction when Katrina hit. A casino barge broke loose from its moorings during the massive storm surge and ended up on the museum grounds. Luckily, the museum's collection was spared, since it wasn't on site yet. The Frank Gehry-designed museum was rebuilt and opened three of its planned five buildings in November 2010. The museum's namesake, George Ohr, was an eccentric ceramic artist born in Biloxi in 1857 who became well-known for his eccentric, intricate pottery. (The O'Keefe's are a locally prominently family who helped establish the museum.) Ohr proclaimed himself the "Mad Potter of Biloxi" and, though he wasn't a world-renowned artist in his time, he predicted that he one day would be. The self-aggrandizing prophecy proved true, as Ohr's works became admired for their modernism and are now displayed in some of the world's great art museums. Along with Ohr's collection, visitors to Ohr-O'Keefe can also see exhibitions featuring the works of Harlem Renaissance artist Richmond Barthé and the prints of Andy Warhol on display through mid-June. And the Gehry-designed campus is an attraction itself, the buildings appearing to sway in the gulf breeze with the many old-growth live oaks on the grounds.
A history tour
Biloxi has a history that pre-dates the casinos by a few centuries. One of the best ways to get a historical -- as well as scenic -- overview of the area is to begin your trip by taking a guided tour. The Biloxi Tour Train (www.biloxitourtrain.com) is an open-air tram tour that has been in operation for almost 50 years. Old-timers refer to the tram by its former name, the "Shrimp Train," and passengers can still see Biloxi's shrimping industry in action on the tour, along with the 18th- and 19th-century architecture of the historic district and some great views of the coastline. The tram departs from the parking lot of the Biloxi Lighthouse on Highway 90, aka Beach Boulevard. Call 228-374-8687 for departure times, which vary throughout the season.
Ship Island
The water is calm on Biloxi's beaches because a string of barrier islands sit miles offshore, helping to keep wave action at a minimum on the coast of the mainland. Ship Island is part of the extensive Gulf Islands National Seashore that runs between Louisiana and the northwest Florida panhandle. The island was split in two by Hurricane Camille; now there is East Ship Island and West Ship Island, the latter accessed by a passenger ferry for day trips to Fort Massachusetts (circa 1860s) and the pristine white sand beaches with their white-capped waves breaking on the Gulf side. There's no shade on the island, so bring a beach umbrella and plenty of sunscreen. Dolphins are frequently spotted swimming alongside the ferry, which departs from Gulfport Yacht Harbor.
Ship Island Excursions: 228-864-1014, www.msshipisland.com.
If you go
Biloxi is approximately a 6.25-hour drive southwest of Atlanta via I-85, to I-65 S, I-10 W and I-110 S. Delta offers daily non-stop flights between Atlanta and Gulfport-Biloxi International Airport.
Stay
Balmoral Inn. Family-friendly property in view of the beach and surrounded by shady oak trees; you park your car directly in front of your room, a refreshing break from the area's big resort properties. Rates start at $75. 120 Balmoral Ave., Biloxi. 800-393-9131, www.balmoralinn.com.
Chateau Blessey. B&B in an exquisitely decorated house overlooking the beach with ornate touches like French chandeliers in the rooms. Rates start at $250 for two (no children under 12). 1012 Beach Blvd., Biloxi. 877-524-5694, www.chateaublessey.com
Eat
Mary Mahoney’s Old French House. Fine French-style dining in one of Biloxi's most historic homes, converted to a restaurant in the 1960s. Entrees $13-$51. 110 Rue Magnolia, Biloxi. 228-374-0163, www.marymahoneys.com.
Ole Biloxi Fillin' Station. Eclectic eatery in a converted gas station where you're likely to see bikers dining alongside families, all noshing on local seafood specialties, Po Boys and burgers. Entrees $12 and under. 692 Howard Ave., Biloxi. 228-435-2522.
Visitor info
Mississippi Gulf Coast/Harrison County Tourism Commission. 888-467-4853, www.gulfcoast.org.
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