It’s been called “the most exciting two minutes in sports,” but “the most exciting two weeks in sports” is more accurate when describing the Kentucky Derby and all the fanfare that comes with it. Before the ponies thunder down the track at Churchill Downs May 5, Louisville is partying in grand, Southern style.
The Kentucky Derby Festival kicks off April 20, but the real fun begins the next day with Thunder over Louisville. The signature event is the Thunder Air Show, where daredevil pilots perform stunts over the Ohio River. The Great Balloon Glow, the Great Steamboat Race and the annual Pegasus Parade are just a few other events that lead up to Derby Day.
If your visit to Louisville doesn’t coincide with Derby season, don’t despair.
There are many Derby-related attractions and Kentucky traditions to be enjoyed year round.
Churchill Downs
Churchill Downs’ iconic twin spires reaching to the heavens inspire something close to reverence in those seeing them for the first time. Perhaps the only thing headier than just being at this temple to horse racing is taking the Behind the Scenes Tour for a peek at restricted areas, like the jockey’s quarters, Millionaire’s Row and the press box.
In the corner of the jockey’s locker room stands the nemesis of every jockey — the scale. Tour guide Barry Northern, a Louisville native, explains that Derby horses race with 126 pounds on their backs, (including the saddle) and jockeys are weighed fully clothed with boots, helmet and goggles.
Visitors often marvel that these slight- framed riders have the strength to control a 1,200-pound animal.
Millionaire’s Row, the famous VIP area, offers a bird’s eye view of the finish line, and only a select few have access to these coveted seats on Derby Day. But as Northern points out, any other race day of the year you don’t have to be a millionaire to afford the luxuries of Millionaire’s Row. With tickets starting at under $35, ordinary race fans can have the same vantage point as celebrities.
Northern estimates that he has attended 32 derbies, witnessing many historic moments.
He likes to tell the story of the big moment he missed at his first derby back in 1973. As a teenager, he sneaked into Churchill Downs and made his way to the infield — party central on Derby Day. Northern quickly learned there’s a reason the infield is considered the “cheap seats.”
“It’s a big party out there, but I couldn’t see any horses,” says Northern. “About an hour before the Derby was over, I decided to walk home and watch it on TV. That was the year Secretariat won the Kentucky Derby, so that’s regret I’m going to have the rest of my life.”
The record-setting thoroughbred went on to win the Preakness Stakes and then the Belmont Stakes, becoming the first U.S. Triple Crown Champion in 25 years.
Kentucky Derby Museum
The newly renovated Kentucky Derby Museum, adjacent to Churchill Downs, celebrates the state’s horse racing culture and offers an in-depth look at the blood, sweat and tears that goes into preparing 3-year-old thoroughbreds for the Run for the Roses.
In Kentucky, horse racing and bourbon go hand in hand, and the museum’s newest exhibit, “Urban Bourbon at the Kentucky Derby Museum,” showcases Louisville’s place in Kentucky’s long bourbon-making heritage.
If you can’t actually attend the Derby, the 17-minute film “The Greatest Race” is the next best thing, putting you in the middle of the heart-pounding Derby Day action.
Don’t miss the “Rider’s Up” exhibit. It’s a big hit with kids, but adults also get a thrill out of racing to the finish line on a mechanical horse.
The Brown Hotel
For the most decadent lunch in town, stop by the Lobby Bar at the Brown Hotel, home of the legendary Kentucky hot brown. This open-faced turkey sandwich topped with a crisscross of bacon requires a knife and fork because it’s smothered in creamy Mornay sauce.
Chef Fred Schmidt invented the hot brown in 1926 as a late night snack for guests at the hotel’s nightly dinner dances. The hotel’s current chef, Laurent Geroli, says using only freshly roasted turkey is the key to a delicious hot brown, but he confides there is one other thing that makes the Brown Hotel’s version superior to all others.
“There’s something with the sauce,” he says. “The classical way to make a béchamel is with milk, but we make it with cream.”
Dee’s Crafts
No woman would dare show her face, or more accurately her head, at the Derby without a stylish hat. Dee’s Crafts embraces the art of millinery every spring, creating elegantly festooned hats for Derby-bound women. Whether a customer wants an over-the-top, umbrella-sized hat with cascades of feathers or a small, flirty fascinator, Dee’s will expertly trim it to match their dress.
If you Go
Regular flights are available from Hartsfield-Jackson International airport to Louisville International Airport.
Stay
The Brown Hotel is a historic downtown property whose claim to fame is the Kentucky hot brown. 335 W. Broadway 1-888-387-0498 Rates $209-$279. Derby weekend (Thurs.-Sat.) package $4,200, includes Sunday brunch in the J. Graham Café. www.brownhotel.com
The Galt House, Kentucky’s largest hotel, offers a sweeping view of the Ohio River. 140 N. Fourth St. 1-800-843-4258 Rates $140-$170. Derby weekend (Thursday-Saturday) Exacta Package $3,150 www.galthouse.com
Eat
Lynn’s Paradise Café, a family-friendly neighborhood restaurant, is famous not only for its unique Southern comfort food, but for its wacky décor. 984 Barret Ave. 1-502-583-3447 Dinner entrées are $14.75-$16.50. www.lynnsparadisecafe.com
Attractions
The Kentucky Derby Museum celebrates the Kentucky Derby experience. 704 Central Ave. 1-502- 637-1111 www.derbymuseum.org. “Urban Bourbon at the Kentucky Derby Museum” closes Dec. 31. The exhibit is included in general admission ticket prices. The museum is closed on Derby Day and Oaks Day (the day before Derby Day). Tickets for the Churchill Downs Behind the Scenes Tour can be purchased at the museum.
Churchill Downs is the historic venue for the Kentucky Derby. 700 Central Ave. 1-502- 636-4400 www.churchilldowns.com
The Kentucky Derby Festival, April 20-May 4, is a two-week party leading up to the Kentucky Derby. For a complete list of events, visit www.kdf.org
Dee’s craft store sells ready-made Derby hats and takes custom orders. 5045 Shelbyville Road; 502-896-6755; www.deescrafts.com.
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