Dining Out
Starters and salads, $6-$11; sandwiches, $9-$12; plates, $11-$16; a la carte, $4-$22; desserts, $5-$7.
Lunch: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-“late” Fridays-Saturdays.
656 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta. 678-515-3550, sweetauburnbbq.com.
Known for its Sweet Auburn Curb Market stall, food truck and catering operations, Sweet Auburn Barbecue recently opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in the former Pura Vida space on North Highland Avenue. Full service, an expanded menu and a full bar are part of the new concept, which continues to riff on Asian-meets-Southern cuisine and fusion barbecue.
The look: The exterior of the corner storefront space has been given a face-lift with fresh paint, new awnings and signage. Inside, the spruced-up Americana look features distressed wood walls, whitewashed trim, chicken wire accents, and kitschy decorations like a pig head and pair of giant cleavers.
The scene: One recent Friday afternoon, there was a surprisingly large and lively lunch crowd gathered at the L-shaped bar and scattered around the dining room. And a steady stream of customers stopped in to order and pick up from the take out menu.
The food: Among the starters, executive chef Marshall Rogers offers a nice homage to Pura Vida chef/owner Hector Santiago with a smoked Niman Ranch pork belly bun ($9). Elsewhere on the menu, there's a smoked brisket Reuben ($12), coconut lemongrass pork spare ribs ($12/$22), and maple-glazed smoked Peking duck ($16). More straightforward barbecue choices include a plate with a choice of pulled pork, chopped chicken or sliced brisket and two sides ($12.50/$14.50) and a "dinosaur bone" salt and pepper beef rib ($13).
The drinks: Former Holeman & Finch bartender Reuben Victor put together the beverage program, which features absinthe service, local craft beers, seasonal cocktails, and late bar service Fridays and Saturdays. On the current cocktail menu, the frothy May Sour is mixed with Rittenhouse Rye, Zucca, apricot bitters, lemon, egg whites and mint ($11).
The extras: Sides ($3) include Asian-spiced pear slaw, Sweetwater 420-spiked borracho beans and jerk-spiced collards. For dessert, find bourbon pecan pie with High Road Bourbon Burnt Sugar ice cream ($6), fried Asian pear pie with buttermilk ice cream, and mint sweet tea sorbet with smoked peaches ($5).
