Here’s what Heather Hurlbert, recently eliminated “Top Chef: Just Desserts” contestant, wants you to know about the tart crust that tripped her up on the show and sent her packing: She has made it before, flawlessly, as executive pastry chef at the Cherokee Town and Country Club in Atlanta.
“Masses of them,” Hurlbert, 40, said last week.
Just not when it counted. Hurlbert was vying for top honors on the new spin-off of the wildly successful “Top Chef” franchise on the Bravo network. Almost every contestant on reality shows is cast as a type (or should we say stereotype), and as “Just Desserts” evolved, Hurlbert was made to appear as the snippy, witchy one. She has been back in Atlanta now for several months since she was voted off the show (its finale airs this week).
When we caught up with her, she was relaxed, gracious and more than ready for the challenge of the club’s dinner rush. Here, in a conversation edited for length and clarity, she talks about competing, shopping local, and taking no mess in the kitchen.
Q: You may not have won “Top Chef: Just Desserts,” but you were named national pastry chef of the year by the American Culinary Federation last year. Which was the more difficult competition?
A: Hands down, “Top Chef: Just Desserts.” You don’t know what sort of environment you’re going into. You don’t know what’s going to be in the pantry. You don’t know the types of people you’ll be working with. So there’s no way to prepare.
Q: You’ve worked at a lot of private retreats; Cherokee Club, Atlanta Athletic Club, Piedmont Driving Club. When are you going to get your own place so the rest of us can try your candied oranges and chocolate ganache?
A: I would love to have my own pastry shop. I just haven’t found the right moment. And it takes a lot of time financially, emotionally and physically.
Q: There’s so much drama on that show and you weren’t shy about playing your part. So how many of those folks act out in hopes it will land them their own reality gig?
A: Several of them said that was their mind-set coming on, that they wanted to get their own show. The way I saw “Top Chef” was that it was just another competition. I’m a seasoned competitor. This is my 16th competition, and I wanted to see how far I could go. Yes, I certainly wasn’t shy about making my opinions known. I’m no-nonsense. And unfortunately, there was so much drama that it really was getting in the way of focusing on the pastries.
Q: Where did your strong nature come from?
A: My mom. She’s very independent and she’s opinionated. But also I work in a kitchen full of men, and if you’re a woman you can’t be shy about things, otherwise they’ll walk all over you. I learned that from my very first job: You can’t be timid.
Q: This season we saw a contestant withdraw from competition. That’s starting to look like a standard plot twist now on reality shows. Do these people who drop out actually know what they are getting into when they sign up?
A: You either have it or you don’t. Some people are cut out to compete and some people just aren’t.
Q: You lasted seven episodes, then were finally undone by a pie crust.
A: I messed up the recipe. And I took full credit for that mistake.
Q: These cooking reality shows are so popular. And we see people out there who are taking huge loans to go to culinary school, thinking that they will be the next Jamie Oliver or Rachael Ray. Do you think it’s realistic to take on that kind of financial burden on such slim chances?
A: In one way these shows glamorize the culinary world, and now that we have these celebrity status chefs, it certainly doesn’t help. But on the other hand, we’re getting more recognition as being in respectable jobs. Being a chef is now a status where we’re respected. So a loan is a loan. They’ll pay for it. Eventually.
Q: What has re-entry been like for you in your kitchen at Cherokee?
A: The attitudes are probably the same. Most cooks are intimidated by me. (Laughs.) I have a very high work ethic. I don’t believe in people goofing off in the kitchen.
Q: So your return didn’t spark any “Top Chef”-like drama or jealousy?
A: (Laughs.) No, no. Everybody has been very supportive. And my pastry team is incredible. I was able to learn so much from the other chefs on the show and in turn I was able to share with my staff all of the different things I learned.
Q: Haven’t you been considered for a Food Network show?
A: Yes. I’ve gotten calls from TLC and Food Network to judge and compete. But my first and foremost focus is being here at the club.
Q: What’s next for you?
A: I’m taking it one day at a time. I love Cherokee. I love Atlanta. I feel really grounded here.
Q: Since most of us can’t sample your desserts, where do you shop? We can at least try some of the ingredients you use.
A: I try to support local farmers. So I go to the Morningside Farmers’ Market to get ideas. I love to cook on the side, so I go to those farmers’ markets to get ideas for cooking, not necessarily pastries. I don’t always have great ideas.
On TV
'Top Chef: Just Desserts'
Season finale. 10 p.m. Wednesday . Bravo.
A couple of Hurlbert’s best recipes
She might not have won the “Top Chef: Just Desserts” title, but Heather Hurlbert is still the top pastry chef at Cherokee Town and Country Club in Atlanta. She shared a couple of her best recipes with us, including one for the infamous pie/tart crust. She guarantees that it’s a winner.
Pâté Sucrée (sweet tart dough)
Makes: 1 9-inch tart shell
½ stick butter
½ cup powdered sugar
1 egg yolk
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup almond flour
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Cream together butter and powdered sugar until light. Add yolk and vanilla extract. Sift together flours and add to butter mixture. Mix just until it comes together. Do not overmix, as it makes it tough. Chill for 30 minutes.
Roll out to size of pan or tart shell and prepare pan.
Let chill 10 minutes.
Bake at 375 degrees for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown.
Pumpkin Ice Cream
Makes : 1 quart
1 ½ cups milk
1 ½ cups heavy cream
¼ vanilla bean
½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 1/8 teaspoons cinnamon
Heaping ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
½ cup pumpkin puree
6 egg yolks
Bring milk, cream, and vanilla bean to boil.
Combine the sugars and spices. Add pumpkin puree, then add yolks.
Temper yolk mixture with boiling milk, combine and cook to 180 degrees or thick (do not boil).
Strain mixture into bowl set over water bath . Cool overnight, then freeze in ice cream maker.
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