It’s a good thing you have a tub of Greek yogurt in your fridge right now, because it’s going to rock your summer cocktails.
Feeling a little funny about that? You're not alone. When I asked Jeff Morgenthaler, who was visiting our office last week and knows good drinks, how he felt about a yogurt cocktail, his first response was: "Ew." But as soon as I told him the other ingredients, he was on board.
Why does the idea rattle us? Is it because we think of yogurt as a weekday breakfast food, and cocktails as something that should never happen at weekday breakfast, unless there’s a problem?
We're already using Greek yogurt everywhere else, and now it's time to get behind trendy bartenders on this one. It's a lazy, arguably healthy and — most importantly — delicious way to get frothy and creamy cocktails, without making them heavy. Think of it like your subtler, classier new piña colada.
For your first yogurtini (just kidding — don't call it that), try this one from Joaquín Simó, the award-winning bartender who was serving these fizzy little numbers at the Lucky Peach James Beard Awards after-party at Má Pêche — where I was not drowning my sorrows after losing to Adam Sachs and which everyone totally remembers in sharp detail.
After the party, I tracked down Simó to find out what was in the drink, and, as he explained how he got there, it made a lot of sense. His inspiration was the Ramos Gin Fizz, which traditionally involves both cream and egg whites, shaken till very frothy.
"The Ramos (long a hated weekend night order at cocktail bars due to its requisite long shaking) perfectly achieves an airy, creamy texture that allows the gin and citrus to shine," he explained. "It's like drinking a boozy meringue."
Here, he took the gin and lemon juice and added Greek yogurt for tang, body and creaminess (without adding sweetness). Then he softened it with orgeat (an almond syrup common in tiki drinks like Mai Tais), lemon curd and a few drops of rosewater. It sounds like the drink could veer off into Phrostie territory, but it won't.
The sweet ingredients come in restrained doses, and they’re grounded by botanicals, gentle acid and, importantly, well-distributed ice shavings.
After crushing your own in the blender, “You’ll end up with some very fine snow as well as some small- and medium-sized bits,” says Simó. “The bigger bits will give you some texture and the fine shavings melt immediately (giving you both dilution and coldness).” Just like a smoothie!
Alternately, you could shake vigorously and double strain, which will make serving up your smart new summer cocktail all the flashier.
Joaquín Simó’s Pearls Before Swine (A Yogurt Cocktail)
2 ounces gin (we like Vikre from our friend fiveandspice)
1/2 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce orgeat (Simó likes Small Hands Foods or Orgeat Works)
1 heaping teaspoon Greek yogurt
1 heaping teaspoon lemon curd (we like Alice Medrich's recipe)
3 drops rose water
Crush 6 ice cubes in a blender (you’ll end up with some very fine snow as well as some small- and medium-sized bits). Add other ingredients except rosewater, blend again briefly, pour into coupe, top with rosewater, and serve immediately. The bigger ice bits will give you some texture and the fine shavings melt immediately (giving you both dilution and coldness).
Alternately, shake all ingredients with ice and double strain into a coupe. Top with rosewater. No garnish.
Adapted slightly from Joaquín Simó of Pouring Ribbons
This article originally appeared on Food52.com: http://food52.com/blog/10737-joaquin-simo-s-pearls-before-swine-a-yogurt-cocktail
Food52 is a community for people who want to eat well and live better. Follow them at Food52.com, and check out their kitchen and home shop, Provisions.
About the Author
