In season: hot peppers

10 a.m. Saturday: Chef Hilary White of The Hil. Peachtree Road Farmers Market, Atlanta. www.peachtreeroadfarmersmarket.com

Chef demos are held at many farmers markets. Check your local market’s Facebook page or website for information.

FOR SALE

Vegetables and fruit: apples, arugula, Asian greens, beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, field peas, figs, garlic, ginger, ground cherries, herbs, lamb’s quarters, lettuce, Malabar spinach, melons, mushrooms, okra, onions, peppers, potatoes, shallots, sorrel, spaghetti squash, spinach, summer squash, sweet potato greens, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, turnip greens, winter squash

— From local reports

For some farmers, growing the tried-and-true is the way to go. Their customers know what to expect and the farmer learns how to manage the crop in a variety of conditions.

For other farmers, growing something new is what captures their fancy. Joe Reynolds of Love is Love Farm at Gaia Garden near Decatur falls into the latter group. This year, he’s been experimenting with some unusual varieties of hot peppers.

One is the “fish” pepper, a 19th century heirloom variety cultivated by African-Americans and traditionally used in oyster and crab houses around the Chesapeake Bay. “I liked the history and how ornamental the peppers and the plants are. The leaves are dark green on one side and a pale yellow green on the other and the peppers are striped, too,” said Reynolds.

He’s growing the peppers in containers, far enough away from his sweet peppers that there won’t be any flavor surprises from cross-pollination. He’s got 25 plants in pots and they yield about a pound of fish peppers a week. He started them in the spring and by mid-July was harvesting his first peppers.

One of his customers for this particular pepper was Terry Koval of The Wrecking Bar. Koval was intrigued with the pepper and its affinity for seafood.

“I smoked the peppers, then grilled them and finally dehydrated them overnight. We ground them in a spice grinder into what was essentially a white paprika. We then added it to a pan sauce with fish stock and served it with black cod and bok choy. They’re really spicy, with a wide open flavor, which compliments the silkiness of the black cod. Unlike a jalapeno that can be spicy and hold it’s heat, the fish peppers’ heat is similar to cayenne, and the heat can be reduced after cooking,” said Koval.

Reynolds is growing two other heirloom hot peppers: the “Hinkelhatz,” a Pennsylvania Dutch variety that dates from the 1880s, and looks like a chicken heart, and “Wenk’s Yellow Hots,” a New Mexico variety of wax pepper that’s good for eating fresh. The Hinkelhatz is traditionally used to make pepper vinegar, one of Reynolds’ favorite ways to preserve hot peppers.

“I like to make pepper vinegar in preparation for green season in the fall,” he says. He makes his pepper vinegar by combining apple cider vinegar and salt, bringing it to a boil, and then pouring it over peppers stuffed into canning jars. Refrigerated, the vinegar will keep for many months.

Reynolds says so many people have a fear of hot peppers, but he loves them for what he says is the amazing way that as little as half a pepper can change the character of a dish.

Reynolds brings his hot peppers to the Thursday evening East Atlanta Village Farmers Market and offers them in the boxes of the farm’s community-supported agriculture program, as well.

Eddie Hernandez’ Pork and Beans with Fish Pepper Relish

Hands on: 15 minutes Total time: 1 hour Serves: 8

Pork belly is the uncured meaty cut of pork from which bacon is made. If you have difficulty finding this cut, use thick cut bacon and soak it for an hour to remove salt and the smoky flavoring.

1 pound pork belly, cut into 1/4-inch squares

9 cups water, divided

1 pound dry pinto or navy beans

1 cup chopped onions

1 cup chopped tomatoes

1 fish pepper, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Fish Pepper Relish (see recipe)

In a medium skillet, combine pork belly and 1 cup water and bring to a boil. Cook until water has evaporated and pork has rendered all its fat. Skim off cracklings and set aside. Reserve fat.

In a large saucepan, combine dried beans with remaining 8 cups water and bring to a boil. Cook until beans are al dente, about 45 minutes.

When beans are al dente, add pork fat.

In a small saucepan, cook onions, tomatoes and pepper over medium heat for 5 minutes.

When beans are al dente, add onion mixture and salt. Taste for seasoning. Simmer until beans are tender. When ready to serve, garnish with Fish Pepper Relish and reserved cracklings.

Per serving: 396 calories (percent of calories from fat, 46), 14 grams protein, 39 grams carbohydrates, 14 grams fiber, 20 grams fat (7 grams saturated), 26 milligrams cholesterol, 413 milligrams sodium.

Eddie Hernandez’ Fish Pepper Relish

Hands on: 10 minutes Total time: 10 minutes Makes: 1 1/4 cups (serving size 1 tablespoon)

1 cup diced tomato

1/4 cup finely diced onion

1 fish pepper, finely diced

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Salt

In a small bowl, combine tomato, onion, and pepper. Add lemon juice and vegetable oil. Taste for seasoning. Set aside until ready to use. May be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.

Per 1-tablespoon serving: 15 calories (percent of calories from fat, 66), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace fiber, 1 gram fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 8 milligrams sodium.