The High Museum’s current exhibition “Frida & Diego: Passion, Politics, and Painting” fills the senses. Colorful and tactile (although, no, you may not touch), the exhibition pulses with life. You can almost hear the conversations and the music that must have been the backdrop as Kahlo and Rivera shared their lives.
It’s no wonder visitors leave the show wanting to satisfy another sense, that of taste. The photographs in particular leave little doubt Diego Rivera had a healthy appetite for food and drink.
In “Frieda’s Fiestas: Recipes and Reminiscences of Life with Frida Kahlo” (Clarkson Potter, out of print but available online at various prices) author Guadalupe Rivera writes, “From her wedding day on, Frida realized that good cooking would be an important part of her life. Master Rivera’s bad moods vanished before the delicious dishes that are normally served in a Mexican home.”
If anyone else craving Mexican food right now Chef Oscar Mendivil of Smyrna’s Village Taqueria is ready to help.
“Mexican cuisine is in my blood. My grandmother ran a 100-year-old bakery in Ciudad Obregon, Sonora, and my mom had a little restaurant,” said Mendivil. He started cooking when he was seven, learning to bake with his grandmother and helping his mother in her restaurant.
Sonora is the Mexican state that shares a border with Arizona and New Mexico. His mother’s restaurant served food pleasing to those on both sides of the border. “It was very much home cooking – meatloaf, pulled beef barbecue sandwiches, tacos. We celebrated Thanksgiving and my mom made a unique stuffing of breadcrumbs mixed with dried peaches, figs, cranberries, walnuts and ground sirloin,” Mendivil recalls.
When he was ready for professional training, he attended the Arizona Culinary Institute in Scottsdale. A career with Ritz-Carlton hotels and resorts in California, Houston and Los Angeles brought him to Atlanta. He was the opening chef for Village Taqueria (then called Lime Taqueria) and has been there six years.
At the taqueria he enjoys the challenge of creating dishes on the spot for his guests. “We have fresh seafood, great lamb and beef, all kinds of produce. I can make whatever our customers want,” he said.
Mendivil was consulting chef for the exhibition’s opening gala and served gorditas topped with pulled beef, tostados crowned with tuna and a chipotle-crema topping and crisp black bean tortillas filled with jumbo lump crab salad.
To introduce Cobb County school children to Mexican food, Mendivil has a special program where the children eat at the taqueria and then take a field trip to the High Museum. “We’re serving them grilled chicken breasts with cilantro salsa, roasted garlic potato puree and spring vegetables. They love it,” he said.
For our story, he created a series of special dishes, contemporary versions of what might have been prepared in Kahlo’s kitchen: Lomito de Puerco Al Achiote from the Yucatan, Bistec con Salsa Verde from the south of Mexico and Camarones al Mojo de Ajo from Mexico’s Pacific coast. Two tequila-based cocktails celebrate what is sometimes referred to as the national beverage of Mexico.
“Frida & Diego: Passion, Politics, and Painting” is open through May 12. For information: www.high.org.
On May 2, 6:30 p.m., Village Taqueria will host “Fridamania,” an evening celebrating local Latino artists in art, food and fashion. They’ll be serving a “Frida-inspired menu” with small bites and tequila tastings. The event is cohosted by the Instituto de Mexico and will feature a collection of collectible Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia bottles. Tickets are $30 per person, $50 per couple. For more information, call 678-309-1113.
Topper:
Tacos, enchiladas and quesadillas step aside. Chef Oscar Mendivil offers three easy-to-execute entrees from three regions of Mexico. The two cocktails are a tasty bonus. Buen probecho!
Cantarito
Hands on: 5 minutes
Total time: 5 minutes
Serves: 1
This cocktail is named for the traditional clay vessel it’s served in. At Village Taqueria, the drink is made with Jose Cuervo Tradicional Reposada tequila and Squirt.
1/4 lime, cut into wedges
1/4 orange, cut into wedges
Crushed ice
1/4 cup reposado tequila
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
Kosher salt
Lemon-lime soda
Orange slices, for garnish
In a cocktail shaker, muddle lime and orange wedges. Add crushed ice and top with tequila, lime juice and a pinch of salt. Shake thoroughly and pour everything into serving glass. Top off with lemon-lime soda and garnish with orange slice.
Per serving: 177 calories (percent of calories from fat, 2), 1 gram protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, trace fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 8 milligrams sodium.
Sangrita with a Shot of Tequila
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes, plus chilling time
Serves: 8
Combining tomato and orange juice may seem surprising, but the result is deliciously refreshing. Drink it alone or with a shot of tequila. The taqueria’s choice is Jose Cuervo Tradicional Reposado.
4 tablespoons diced onion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 chile de arbol
1 cup tomato juice
1 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
3/4 cup reposado tequila
Lime wedges and kosher salt, for garnish
To make Sangrita: in a dry skillet, heat onion, garlic and chile de arbol for 5 minutes. stirring constantly.
In the jar of a blender, combine cooked vegetables with tomato juice, orange juice, salt and pepper. Process until smooth. Strain and season to taste. May be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated.
When ready to serve, pour Sangrita into small serving glasses. Pour one shot (3 tablespoons) tequila into matching glasses. Serve together with lime wedges and salt.
Per serving: 72 calories (percent of calories from fat, 3), 1 gram protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, trace fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 178 milligrams sodium.
Lomito de Puerco Al Achiote (Pork Tenderloin with Annatto Seasoning)
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes
Serves: 2
This is an adaptation of a Yucatan recipe for pit-roasted pork. Mendivil serves it with the traditional accompaniment of steamed rice. Annatto condiment paste is a mixture of annatto, spices, garlic, vinegar and citrus juice. A common seasoning available at every spice stall in the Yucatan, here in metro Atlanta you can find it at Hispanic groceries or the Buford Highway Farmers Market.
4 teaspoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
Juice from 3 oranges (about 1 1/3 cup)
1 cup of water
1/2 cup plus 3 teaspoons vinegar, divided
1 (3.5-ounce) package annatto condiment paste
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 (1- to 1 1/4-pound) pork tenderloin
Salt and pepper
1 red onion, sliced 1/8-inch thick
Orange sections, filleted
In a small skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute yellow onion and garlic until translucent, about 5 minutes.
In the jar of a blender, combine sauteed onion and garlic with orange juice, water, 3 teaspoons vinegar, annatto condiment paste and sugar. Process until thoroughly blended. Taste for seasoning. Set 1/4 cup aside to be used as sauce. The remaining mixture becomes a marinade.
Arrange tenderloin in a shallow bowl and pour marinade over pork. Let rest at room temperature while oven preheats.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
When oven is ready, remove tenderloin from mixture and arrange on baking sheet. Discard remaining marinade. Roast tenderloin 30 minutes or until tenderloin is golden brown and internal temperature comes to 145 degrees. Remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes before slicing.
While pork is roasting, make pickled onions. Combine red onion rings and remaining 1/2 cup vinegar. Set aside.
When the pork has rested, slice and arrange on serving platter. Cover with reserved sauce and garnish with pickled red onion and orange sections. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 503 calories (percent of calories from fat, 25), 51 grams protein, 68 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 17 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 149 milligrams cholesterol, 1,113 milligrams sodium.
Bistec con Salsa Verde (Grilled Skirt Steak with Tangy Green Salsa)
Hands on: 15 minutes
Total time: 15 minutes
Serves: 2
Can’t find inside skirt steak? Mendivil suggests using sirloin or ribeye instead. Outside skirt steak will be too tough for this preparation.
Mendivil serves this dish with roasted seasonal vegetables. For our photo, the vegetables were onions, red pepper, poblano pepper, broccoli and spinach, roasted with a little olive oil.
1 (1-pound) inside skirt steak
1 ear white corn
1/4 cup warm Salsa Verde (see recipe)
Preheat grill to very hot. Lightly oil grate.
Pat skirt steak dry and rub with salt and pepper. Arrange steak and corn on grill. Cook steak 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Cook corn 5 minutes, rotating to evenly cook all sides. When corn and steak are done, transfer to platter. Cover lightly with foil and allow to stand 5 minutes.
When ready to serve, cut corn off the cob and set aside. Cut steak in half and arrange each half on serving plates. Garnish with reserved corn and divide salsa over steaks. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 449 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 45 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 24 grams fat (10 grams saturated), 116 milligrams cholesterol, 260 milligrams sodium.
Salsa Verde (Tangy Green Salsa)
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 25 minutes
Makes: 2 cups
Extra salsa verde can be used in Heuvos Rancheros, as a dip for fresh corn chips or as a garnish for chilaquiles.
1 cup water
8 small tomatillos, husks removed, washed, roughly chopped (about 1/2 pound)
1 small onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 serrano pepper, roughly chopped
1 cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
Salt and pepper
Make Salsa Verde: In a small saucepan, combine water, tomatillos, onion, garlic and serrano. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool 5 minutes. In the jar of a blender, process mixture until smooth. Add cilantro and process again. Season to taste. Keep warm until ready to serve. If making ahead, bring to room temperature and then refrigerate for up to 3 days. Can be warmed gently when ready to use or served cold.
Per 2-tablespoon serving: 17 calories (percent of calories from fat, 14), 1 gram protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, trace fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 4 milligrams sodium.
Camarones al Mojo de Ajo (Shrimp with Garlic Sauce)
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes
Serves: 2
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 pound jumbo shrimp (16-20 per pound), peeled and deveined
1/4 cup Mojo de Ajo (see recipe)
1 avocado
Fresh cilantro, for garnish
In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add shrimp and cook 5 minutes, turning frequently. Do not overcook shrimp. When shrimp is just done, add Mojo de Ajo and cook everything together 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
Slice avocado. Divide sliced avocado between serving plates. Arrange shrimp on avocado and garnish with cilantro. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 592 calories (percent of calories from fat, 61), 48 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 40 grams fat (7 grams saturated), 353 milligrams cholesterol, 347 milligrams sodium.
Mojo de Ajo (Garlic Sauce)
Hands on: 10 minutes
Total time: 10 minutes
Makes: 3/4 cup
Extra Mojo de Ajo can be used as a marinade for chicken, pork or fish, or served as a sauce for one of those proteins.
1/2 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
7 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)
Salt and white pepper
In jar of a blender, combine olive oil, butter, garlic and lime juice. Process until smooth. In a medium skillet, bring mixture to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Season to taste. May be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.
Per 2-tablespoon serving: 200 calories (percent of calories from fat, 96), trace protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 22 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 23 milligrams sodium.
