On the other side of Savannah, away from the touristy vibe and hubbub of River Street is Hugh Acheson's newest Southern spot: The Florence. The restaurant is a nod to both the city of Italy, and Savannah's historical statue, "the Waving Girl" of Florence Martus. Since opening this June, Chef Kyle Jacovino (formerly at both Five & Ten and Empire State South) has been fusing together the two traditional cuisines: Southern and Italian. Here, we talked with Chef Jacovino and Hugh Acheson about The Florence two months in.
What is the similarity between Italian and Southern food?
HA: I believe there is immense kinship between the cooking of the Southern US and the cooking of Italy. Both are reactions to their agrarian landscape that result in beautiful, albeit usually simple dishes. But don't let simple fool you, it's a depth of flavor in those fields.
How do you translate that on the menu?
HA: At the Florence we are making Italian food with local staples: from shrimp, to farro, to tomatoes, to herbs and pork. It's a fun filter to cook through. Kyle is doing a great job putting the food he loves into Southern context.
Kyle, You spent time in Italy, what part?
KJ: I cooked my way through Italy, visiting friends in Naples and Puglia and in Bologna and Venezia. My ancestors come from the Molise region of Italy.
What particularly inspired you that is now on the menu?
KJ: Right now The Florence is doing a Farro Paccheri with our housemade preserved sardines, opal basil, squid, and a pepperoni ragu. It's a fun dish that expresses what I learned in Italy, but with a modern twist.
How else is the Florence similar to Italian dining?
KJ: We had a lot of fun designing the layout of the menu; I wanted it to guide diners through a typical Italian meal progression. It starts off with beginnings or appetizers then moves into smaller pastas. To us pasta is a mid-course and a part of a meal. Diners can then enjoy entrées accompanied by family-style sides. It's a really fun and paced way to dine.
Do you think Savannah similar to Italy's historical towns?
KJ: One could easily say Savannah has similarities to many cities in Italy. Most obvious to me is the beautiful architecture. And old sidewalks with trees uprooting them - walking down them takes me back.
Was there significance in choosing the ice factory as the building for The Florence?
HA: I wanted a space big enough to house the three concepts inherent in the Florence: a coffee shop, a restaurant, and a bar. The space has the patina I was longing for and Jamestown Properties did a great job convincing us of the need for a community restaurant that would serve all of the surrounding areas. They have been spot-on in that interpretation so far as pretty much 80% of our clients are coming from within 2 miles.
What about the separation of the different rooms, the patio and bar area- how does that cater to the crowd?
HA:I like creating places that will attract people for numerous reasons, so the varied spaces help that interpretation. If you want more formal dining, eat downstairs. If you want a coffee and a croissant, eat in the coffee shop. If you want a beer and a pizza, eat upstairs. If you want three beers and are walking home, go to the upstairs patio and stare at the stars while imbibing.
What do you think of the Savannah restaurant scene?
HA: Seems to be taking off. There are a lot of classics that are killlin' it but lots of room for contemporary growth. Great coffee scene as well, which is something I adore.
You can view a photo gallery of The Florence here.
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