Nakato invests in itself to remain a treasure of Atlanta’s dining scene

While the restaurant has reopened, the glow-up is not totally complete, Takahara said in an interview with The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. The tatami rooms, highly traditional spaces for Japanese tea ceremonies, are still closed while their decades-old tatami mats undergo restoration in Japan. Takahara has plans to add more decor to the main dining room, which feels a bit colder after losing the scores of paper cranes that once hung from its ceiling.

A hibachi chef is wreathed in steam at Nakato. (Courtesy of Nakato)

I’m generally skeptical of large restaurants with expansive menus and multiple service styles. How can one business do so many different things while maintaining a high standard? In this respect, Nakato’s longevity gives it a unique advantage. Each aspect of the restaurant was built over time, adding layers based on customer demand and opportunities of the moment (Takahara said her parents moved the restaurant to its current home on Cheshire Bridge Road in anticipation of the 1996 Olympics).

The real advantage of Nakato’s hibachi, though, is its use of high-quality ingredients. The chefs’ showmanship and flair are the main draw, but I was impressed with the appearance of the raw ingredients, especially the deep red, slightly marbled filet mignon and fresh-looking scallops and lobster. Our chef cooked everyone’s steak to their preferred temperature, and he nailed the texture of both seared scallops and lobster tail. Hibachi is one of the better formats for cooking lobster, thanks to the flavorful, slightly crisped edges the meat picks up from the grill.

In addition to hibachi dishes, customers can order a sashimi plate at Nakato. (Courtesy of Nakato)

Some new elements appear to be safe, simple choices but actually hold deep meaning, like the white oak bar top. The reconfigured bar is anchored by a long slab of white oak, a tree native to Japan, which was supplied by longtime customer Whitney Wolf. The founder of a furniture-making company, Wolf had the oak slabs were cut from a tree that fell in his parents’ yard in nearby Druid Hills. Takahara said the new bar top perfectly represents her — cut from a tree with local roots but equally at home in Japan, adding a new layer to her generational family restaurant.

The Illuminati roll at Nakato is named for its triangular shape. (Courtesy of Nakato)

Nakato also serves some fun sushi, like the unique Illuminati roll named for its distinctive triangular shape. The “eye” inside the triangle is made with yellowtail and salmon, making the roll feel luxurious and substantial.

Nasu dengaku is eggplant sections roasted to an almost custard-like consistency, at Nakato. (Courtesy of Nakato)

After its temporary closure and remodel, Nakato’s heart remains the same. Takahara’s investment in her family’s restaurant, and the care she took to keep the staff employed during the closure, are proof that Nakato hasn’t sunk into complacency in its fifth decade. That level of care is why generations of families continue to patronize the restaurant for celebrations at every stage of life. It’s what makes Nakato a treasure in the constantly shifting sands of the Atlanta dining scene.