Here are four dishes to seek out this month in the metro area, including one where a flower is the star as well as an edible vessel that holds a tasty filling.
Mughlai chicken curry at Desi Tadka
Rich, decadent Mughlai chicken curry is emblematic of its origins in the Mughal Empire of South Asia, a dynasty that spanned from the 16th to the 19th centuries and fused Indian, central Asian and Persian cooking styles with spices, nuts and dried fruits made into creamy curries.
Desi Tadka’s version was rich, creamy and bursting with spices — a titillating dance of cumin, coriander, cardamom, ginger, garam masala and turmeric. I detected slightly sweet, nutty fenugreek and the slow-burning heat of deggi mirch — dried and ground chiles. At the base, onions caramelized in ghee (clarified butter) were savory and sweet. It tasted time-consuming.
You could tell the chicken thigh meat pieces, slightly larger than bite-size, were cooked slowly on low. Each bite was incredibly tender, soft (from a yogurt marinade) and well-seasoned, having absorbed the layers of flavor. It was velvety, comforting, indulgent and befitting the royalty for whom it was created.
1685 Church St., Decatur. 404-254-0978, thedesitadka.com.
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Hibiscus/Jamaica tacos at Antiguo Lobo
I don’t often see hibiscus flowers on a menu unless it is as the base of a drink. So, I was delighted to find “tacos de Jamaica” — as tacos made with hibiscus are branded in Mexican cuisine — at Antiguo Lobo. Each bite of the taco was as delicious as it was pretty in pink.
Hibiscus flowers, refried black beans and avocado were tucked into house-made heirloom Oaxacan blue corn tortillas for a taste experience wholly new to me.
Rehydrated hibiscus flowers have a unique flavor when cooked and seasoned. The petals were tart and tangy, with fruity citrus notes. And through some sort of cooking magic, they unexpectedly had a meat-like chew. The flower pieces were bright and floral, with an almost lemony flavor, and were savory from seasoning. Creamy avocado and black beans added balance but didn’t take away from the refreshing, unconventional experience.
The tacos can be ordered as a plate with rice and charro beans or by themselves — a good way to try other options. I loved how cilantro, onion, slivers of radish and salsa verde came on the side, so you can create your own adventure.
5370 Peachtree Road, Chamblee. 470-385-6502, antiguolobo.com.
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
“Coffee and doughnuts” pork belly at Terra Terroir
Is it an entree or dessert? That’s a question you might ask after you’ve already wondered how this patio oasis behind a strip mall remains a hidden gem. At Terra Terroir, they leverage the power of contrast.
The dish begins with high-quality Duroc pork belly brined in coffee, its alternating layers of meat and rich fat rendered perfectly to a melt-in-your mouth state. The thick slabs were lean and gained moisture from basting in the fat while searing in the pan. They were intensely flavored, but not greasy. The exterior was crisp, with browned edges, and was crackly in places. It was meaty but so unctuous it felt dessertish.
The slices of pork drizzled in a coffee balsamic soy reduction were paired with a grilled Krispy Kreme doughnut. Soft and warm, with hints of vanilla, it provided a textural counterpoint to the chewy, salty pork. Sprinkled generously over the doughnut and pork belly were crispy pork rinds, which acted as seasoning and added a crunchy element.
We started our meal with this dish, and I wouldn’t have changed a thing.
3974 Peachtree Road, Atlanta. 404-620-5274, terraterroir.com.
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Shrimp and avocado plantain bites at Verdure Kitchen & Cocktails
I ordered this dish expecting to dine on a dip while I perused the menu with a cocktail in this garden-like restaurant that serves African ingredients fused with new American style.
Instead of a bowl of dip and chips, two crispy, filled vessels made of plantain arrived. Slices of green plantain were fried tender, then pressed into a cup shape and fried again until golden. They were sturdy and had a pleasing crunch, with a flavor that was a little sweet and a bit earthy.
They were hearty alone but inside was a guacamole-like creamy mix of avocado, tomato, purple onion and leaves of cilantro in a lime dressing. Perched atop were warm, grilled pieces of shrimp.
In a bite, you got crunch, creamy richness, bright citrus tempered by cool vegetal notes and the smoke-touched meaty lightness of shrimp. It was a tasty treat in a tiny package.
560 Dutch Valley Road, Atlanta. 404-968-9246, verdurekitchen.com.
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