Savor the flavor of Bardstown, Kentucky, heart of the Bourbon Trail

Life as a bourbon butler isn’t always easy, but Norma Smith loves her role at the new Trail Hotel, a bourbon-themed property that opened in May in Bardstown, Kentucky, the Bourbon Capital of the World.

Think of her as the fairy godmother of bourbon. She will do her best to make your bourbon dreams come true — whether that means hunting down rare bottles, arranging a curated dinner with a master distiller, setting up a bourbon-cigar pairing or arranging tours at well-known distilleries.

“The most fun part of my job is introducing guests to new bourbons or brands that they might not have heard of or might not have access to where they are from,” Smith said.

Located 41 miles south of Louisville, Historic Bardstown is small with a population of about 13,500, but it is home to 11 major distilleries within a 16-mile radius, making it the heart of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. The trail spans hundreds of miles and has some 60 stops across the state, so planning a trip can be overwhelming. That’s where Smith comes in.

Norma Smith is a bourbon butler at the new Trail Hotel in Bardstown, Kentucky. (Courtesy of Trail Hotel)

She builds custom itineraries for guests based on which section of the trail they want to see and the bourbons they hope to sample. Some are content to sip their way through Bardstown, while others are up for a day trip to Louisville or Lexington.

“Guests check into the hotel, just throw their bags down, and I make it easy for them, whether they are staying one night or multiple days,” Smith said.

That includes transportation, essential for distillery hoppers who don’t want to drink and drive.

Don’t make the rookie mistake of thinking you can easily call a taxi or ride share. Many distilleries are in rural locations with limited transportation services. The unaware can get stuck in the boondocks without a ride.

A good bourbon butler would never let that happen.

The hotel, now on the National Register of Historic Places, was built in the 1970s as a Holiday Inn and was a happening place for locals back in the day. It sat empty for many years before it was purchased at auction in 2021 by Will Hardy and Nathan “Ejo” Edmonds. The friends shared a vision of building the first high-end hotel in Bardstown.

Following an extensive redesign and renovation, it now has a midcentury modern vibe. Dark wood and leather seating in the common areas lend an air of the traditional gentleman’s club as seen in classic films.

The new Trail Hotel in Bardstown, Kentucky, has a copper column still in the lobby. (Courtesy of Trail Hotel)

A soaring copper column still in the lobby sets the scene for an immersive bourbon experience.

Kentucky’s famous spirit is honored in 95 guest rooms and eight bourbon-themed suites that come with bourbon-flavored coffee. In-room art chronicles the region’s bourbon-making heritage.

There are five bars on-site, so even if guests never leave the hotel, they could still have an immersive bourbon experience.

At the Bourbon Vault, an intimate speakeasy with an entrance hidden behind an enormous artwork, you can have your bourbon neat, on the rocks or in a cocktail. On the wall hangs an arrangement of branded barrel heads that represent area distilleries, including Lux Row, Four Roses, Barton 1792 and Chicken Cock microdistillery, a new addition to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

The unicorns of the industry live behind the bar at Oak & Ember, the hotel restaurant, where at least 135 bourbons are in stock at any given time. If you love rare, vintage expressions and have deep pockets, there’s an extensive list of enticing elixirs to choose from. A one-ounce pour of Rabbit Hole Mizunara Founder’s Collection, a 15-year-old Kentucky bourbon aged in rare Japanese Mizunara oak casks, will set you back $430.

Would you like a cigar with that? Purchase your favorite smoke from the humidor in the gift shop and stroll over to Bourbon Alley, the hotel’s outdoor oasis with firepits and Adirondack chairs for lounging. You’ll likely find fellow bourbon lovers eager to discuss what’s in their glass.

When you finally venture forth from this bourbon playground, make sure the new Heaven Hill Springs Distillery, part of a $200 million expansion, is on your itinerary. Heaven Hill is the largest family-owned and operated distillery in the U.S., known for brands such as Evan Williams, Elijah Craig and its namesake, Heaven Hill.

The new Heaven Hill Springs Distillery represents a return to distilling in Bardstown. (Courtesy of Wesley K.H. Teo)

The new state-of-the-art facility that opened in September is more than just another distillery. It’s a return to distilling in Bardstown after a devastating fire caused by a lightning strike in 1996 destroyed the old distillery and seven rickhouses (warehouses where bourbon is aged).

“Making whiskey in Bardstown again represents a homecoming for us,” general manager Josh Hollifield said. “It showcases our commitment to the community and adds to our legacy as a key partner located in the Bourbon Capital.”

Distilling operations moved to the Bernheim Distillery in Louisville in 1999 and will continue there, but it is not open to the public. Eventually, the new Bardstown distillery will match production in Louisville, turning out 450,000 barrels annually, doubling Heaven Hill’s bourbon output.

Even before the opening of the new distillery, the brand had a strong presence in Bardstown at the Heaven Hill Bourbon Experience, a visitor center that offers tastings and interactive exhibits. But the new working distillery allows a behind-the-scenes look at how bourbon is made.

The Heritage Rising Tour takes small groups through the grain-to-still process, showcasing modern, energy-efficient technology.

It starts at a large window overlooking the grain silos where corn, rye wheat and malted barley are stored. Heaven Hill has six traditional mash bills (grain recipes) for its core brands but distills many more for specialty releases and other expressions.

Next stop is the swimming pool-sized stainless-steel tanks where the mash is cooked with Kentucky’s famous limestone water to create sour mash. When yeast is added, the fermentation process begins, producing a pungent, slightly sour smell.

Next up is the copper still room. The 66-inch column still rumbles like a chugging locomotive as it uses steam to turn the fermented mash, called distiller’s beer, into “white dog,” the raw distillate before it has been aged. It flows through the Heaven Hill logo on a glass “spirit safe,” a tasting port for the distillers.

Some guests are surprised that the liquid is as clear as water. Bourbon doesn’t obtain its amber color until it has been aged in charred new oak barrels.

Of course, the best part of a distillery tour is tasting the finished product. Bourbon lovers line up at the bar in the cavernous Grand Hall where a chatty bartender pours samples. A special treat is the Master Distillers Unity, a limited-edition bourbon released in September to celebrate the distillery opening. It features a spice-forward flavor profile of cinnamon and nutmeg with undertones of toasted pecan.

This tour doesn’t include rickhouses, but there are plenty that do. If you want to see how bourbon is aged, have your bourbon butler add the Bardstown Bourbon Company to your itinerary. The Four Core Tour, a reference to three bourbons and one rye whiskey, ends in a rickhouse stacked high with bourbon barrels. A guide uses a tool called a whiskey thief to extract bourbon straight from the barrel and into the glass.

Another worthwhile stop is Willett Distillery, perched in the verdant rolling hills of Central Kentucky. Even if you aren’t up for another tour, The Bar at Willett is a delicious lunch spot that was a 2025 James Beard semifinalist in the Outstanding Bar category. The signature egg salad sandwich served on toasted brioche is a customer favorite.

When you return to the Trail Hotel after a day of distillery hopping, share the highlights with your bourbon butler. After all, every fairy godmother likes to know she granted your wishes.

IF YOU GO

Bardstown is 400 miles north of Atlanta via I-75N to I-24W to I-65N. Or take a one-hour, 20-minute nonstop flight from Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport to Louisville, Kentucky, and drive 41 miles southeast to Bardstown.

Distillery Tours

Heaven Hill Springs Distillery. Heritage Rising tour, $55. Guests meet at Heaven Hill Bourbon Experience and are transported to Heaven Hill Springs. 1311 Gilkey Run Road, Bardstown, Kentucky. 502-337-1000, heavenhilldistillery.com.

Bardstown Bourbon Company. Core Four tour, $24. 1500 Parkway Drive, Bardstown, Kentucky. 502-233-4769, bardstownbourbon.com