RECIPES: Let your taste in mushrooms grow
The button, cremini or portobello mushrooms you find at the grocery store are the most commonly cultivated mushrooms in the United States. They’re easy to grow in large quantities and sturdy enough to ship across the country.
But an increasing number of Atlanta-area specialty mushroom farmers are making fresher and more interesting mushrooms like shiitake, oyster and lion’s mane available to local customers.
There’s a lot of science involved. For these farmers, mushroom growing means working in a sterile environment to grow mushroom spores in petri dishes, then transferring some of that material into containers of sterilized grain where it multiplies, and then finally moving the mycelium, or root system, to containers where the mushrooms will grow. Depending on the variety, at that point the mushrooms can be ready for harvest in anywhere from 5 to 15 days.
Howard Berk of Ellijay Mushrooms has been harvesting shiitake and oyster mushrooms since 2018, growing his mushrooms on mountain farmland shared with Buddhist monks.
Not only is Berk sold on the flavor of his mushrooms, but he’s also a believer in their health benefits. “We talk a lot about the health benefits of shiitakes,” he said as an example. “They’re one of the mushrooms that have natural vitamin D and they have tons of amino acids.”
Berk sells to many Atlanta restaurants, including El Ponce, which provided the recipe for Mushroom Birria in this story. The public can purchase his mushrooms at stores and markets across the Southeast, including Whole Foods Market, Your DeKalb Farmers Market, Sevananda Natural Foods and Garnish & Gather, as well as the Ellijay farm itself.
When Shannon Williams of Cumming-based Noble Fungi Farm retired from his job at UPS, he started researching mushrooms and their health benefits. “I learned about the health benefits of turkey tail mushrooms and researched how to make a tincture,“ said Williams. “When I had a good response to the tincture, and my joints stopped hurting, I began telling everybody — my family in Indiana, the neighbor next door, my barber.”
He bought a turkey tail mushroom grow kit and when those did well, bought kits for other mushrooms and put up a grow tent. Soon he was deep into growing specialty mushrooms, expanding from one mushroom variety to the almost dozen he now grows. During market season, he can be found weekly at the Green Market at Piedmont Park and occasionally at the Cumming farmers market, with oyster mushrooms in several colors, chestnut, king trumpet, lion’s mane mushrooms and others depending on the season.
During the pandemic, childhood friends Bill Corcoran and brothers Austin and Branden Taylor shifted their growing business from microgreens to gourmet mushrooms. In 2021, they launched Snellville-based the Horti-Culture on their 19-acre farm. “We started with cultures in February, and by March and April, we were harvesting mushrooms,” said Corcoran. “I had grown up working in the restaurant industry, so my friends in the business became our first customers.” Currently, the Horti-Culture sells their mushrooms to Under the Cork Tree in Sandy Springs, Three Blind Mice in Lilburn and Trend Urban Cafe in Stone Mountain.
The public can buy the Horti-Culture’s oyster, lion’s mane, chestnut and other mushrooms at the Atlanta Mushroom Market, the Snellville and Avondale Estates farmers markets, and the Liliburn and Flowery Branch markets when open.
RECIPES
Two mushroom growers and an Atlanta restaurant share recipes using local specialty mushrooms. Because the mushrooms don’t travel a long distance, they are fresher and keep more of their nutrients. Store your mushrooms in a paper bag in the refrigerator, avoiding plastic bags and containers. There’s no need to wash the mushrooms before cooking. Simply trim as needed.
Vegan Rainbow Mushroom Stroganoff
When Shannon Williams of Noble Fungi Farm began growing mushrooms, his eldest daughter Rena adapted the family’s stroganoff recipe to use a combination of golden, blue, pink, elm and brown oyster mushrooms. Making it with just one variety of oyster mushrooms will be just as delicious.
- 1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
- 2 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon vegan Worcestershire sauce, optional
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, divided
- 1 1/4 pounds mixed oyster mushrooms, torn into 1-inch pieces, divided
- 6 minced garlic cloves, divided
- 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried thyme, divided
- 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, divided, plus more to taste
- 1 teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt, divided
- 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc
- 1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk
- 2 tablespoons tahini
- 2 tablespoons nutritional yeast
- 1 teaspoon paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon Dijon or coarse-grain mustard
- 12 ounces fettuccine
- 2 cups baby spinach
- 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill or parsley, plus more for garnish
- Prepare broth: In a medium bowl, whisk together broth, tamari or soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce, if using. Whisk in flour until no clumps of flour remain. Set aside.
- Make sauce: In a 3-quart or larger Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. When oil begins to shimmer, add half the mushroom pieces. Cook mushrooms 8 minutes or until lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium and add half the garlic, thyme and pepper and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook 3 minutes or until mushrooms become crisp. Add wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape any browned bits from the bottom. Cook 3 minutes or until the alcohol has evaporated. Whisk in broth mixture. When mixture returns to a simmer, add coconut milk, tahini, nutritional yeast, paprika and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook 10 minutes or until the sauce is thickened and very creamy. Stir mustard into the sauce.
- Prepare crisped mushrooms: In a large skillet, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. When oil begins to shimmer, add remaining mushrooms. Cook mushrooms 8 minutes or until lightly browned, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium and add remaining garlic, thyme, pepper and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook until mushrooms are crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and leave in skillet to keep warm but do not cover.
- Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and add to Dutch oven with sauce. Stir in spinach and chopped dill or parsley. Toss to combine, then divide pasta between 6 serving plates. Top each plate with crisped mushrooms, then garnish with additional dill or parsley. Serve immediately.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving: 515 calories (percent of calories from fat, 44), 15 grams protein, 59 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams total sugars, 7 grams fiber, 26 grams total fat (15 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 694 milligrams sodium.
Mushroom Birria
Birria is a traditional Mexican dish of beef or other proteins prepared in a spicy broth. After cooking, the broth and proteins are separated, and the broth can be served on the side, or used to cook beans or rice. This recipe comes from Roberto Montalvo, general manager of El Ponce restaurant in Poncey-Highland. Mushroom Birria is a filling option for El Ponce’s tacos and quesadillas. The restaurant prepares this dish using oyster and shiitake mushrooms from Ellijay Mushrooms.
Achiote is a spice that can be found in stores carrying Hispanic groceries.
- 3 dried guajillo chiles
- 1 dried pasilla chile
- 5 dried chile de arbol
- 1 1/2 teaspoons pure olive oil
- 1 small onion, cut in quarters
- 3 garlic cloves
- 4 cups vegetable broth
- 3/4 teaspoon oregano
- 3/4 teaspoon paprika
- 1/4 teaspoon cumin
- 1/4 teaspoon achiote
- 1 pinch ground cloves
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 1 pound mixed oyster and shiitake mushrooms, trimmed if needed, torn into 1-inch pieces
- Prepare chiles: Remove stems and seeds from guajillo and pasilla chiles and chile de arbol. Put chiles in a bowl, cover with hot water and soak 30 minutes. Drain when ready to use and discard soaking liquid.
- While chiles are soaking, in a small skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic. Use tongs to turn onion and garlic to brown on all sides, about 4 minutes.
- In the jar of a blender, combine drained chiles and cooked onion and garlic with broth, oregano, paprika, cumin, achiote and cloves. Blend until smooth. Move mixture to a large saucepan and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. Add mushrooms and continue simmering for 10 minutes. Turn off heat and allow to cool. Strain the mushrooms to use as a filling and serve the broth alongside. If not using the Mushroom Birria right away, allow to cool and store covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per 1/2 cup broth: 58 calories (percent of calories from fat, 28), 2 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 2 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 446 milligrams sodium. Per 1/2 cup mushrooms: 41 calories (percent of calories from fat, 12), 2 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams total sugars, 2 grams fiber, 1 gram total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 126 milligrams sodium.Note: For nutritional calculations, “salt to taste” is defined as 1/16 teaspoon.
Lion’s Mane “Crab” Cakes
Lion’s mane mushrooms have a unique stringy texture that makes them a perfect substitute for crab or lobster, so much so that lion’s mane “crab” cakes are the most popular culinary use for this variety. Lion’s mane mushrooms are available from mushroom farmers at local farmers markets and at Whole Foods Market or other natural food stores. Call to confirm availability.
Bill Corcoran of the Horti-Culture provided this recipe and suggests serving them with a green salad and a few lemon wedges. “These cakes are also great served on a bun like a burger,” he said.
Mushroom ketchup is available at natural food stores.
- 1 pound lion’s mane mushrooms
- 2 tablespoons water
- 1/4 teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt
- 1/2 cup panko
- 1/4 cup minced green onion
- 1/4 cup minced red bell pepper
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- 2 tablespoons chopped herbs (such as cilantro, tarragon or Italian parsley), plus extra for garnish
- 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce or mushroom ketchup
- 1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning, optional
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- Vegetable oil, for sauteing cakes
- Sweet and Spicy Aioli, for serving (see recipe)
- Tear the lion’s mane mushrooms into pieces that resemble bits of crabmeat.
- In a large skillet, combine mushrooms with water and salt and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cover skillet and cook 3 minutes or until mushrooms have wilted and released their liquid, stirring occasionally. Remove cover and continue cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and allow mushrooms to cool, then using your hands, squeeze mushrooms to release as much liquid as possible, discarding any liquid that drains off.
- Put the mushrooms in a large bowl. Stir in panko, green onion, bell pepper, mayonnaise, herbs, Worcestershire or mushroom ketchup, and Old Bay seasoning, if using. Taste the mixture and add more seasoning if needed. Add egg and stir to combine. Let mixture rest at least 15 minutes, or cover and put in refrigerator overnight.
- When ready to cook: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Pour flour into a pie plate. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set next to the flour.
- Divide the mushroom mixture and use your hands to form 8 cakes, being careful as the mixture is fragile. Put each cake into flour, turning to coat all sides. Dust off any excess flour and arrange cakes on the prepared baking sheet. Discard unused flour.
- Pour very thin layer of oil into a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat. When oil is shimmering, use a spatula to arrange cakes in hot skillet and cook until brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Use spatula to turn cakes and then transfer skillet to oven. Bake until hot throughout, about 10 minutes. Remove cakes to serving plates and serve immediately with Sweet and Spicy Aioli.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per “crab” cake: 123 calories (percent of calories from fat, 44), 4 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 6 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), 23 milligrams cholesterol, 171 milligrams sodium.Sweet and Spicy Aioli
- 1/2 cup mayonnaise
- 2 tablespoons honey
- 2 tablespoons relish
- 1 tablespoon Sriracha
- 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
- In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, honey, relish, Sriracha and vinegar. May be made ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per tablespoon: 68 calories (percent of calories from fat, 78), trace protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram total sugars, trace fiber, 6 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), 3 milligrams cholesterol, 99 milligrams sodium.Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter
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