Weekend on Eleuthera, Bahamas, one of three ways: on a budget, spending a bit more, or when the getaway calls for a splurge.
Trip tips: At 110 miles long and no wider than 2 miles wide, Eleuthera is most famous for its 100 miles of spectacular, deserted pink sand beaches. Snorkeling, diving and fishing are world-class. The island has vast caves, cliffs, a bottomless ocean hole, rolling acres of pineapple plantations, historic churches, 19th-century homes, and small villages to explore.
The capital, Governor's Harbour, has grocery stores, restaurants, liquor stores, two banks with ATMs, a bakery, gift shops and a medical clinic. Nearby is lovely French Leave Beach. A rental car is essential on Eleuthera island, where a pothole-riddled road, Queen's Highway, stretches for about 100 miles with numerous restaurants and recreational options. Most models average 10-plus years, and car rental agreements are informal (ask for a receipt). Gasoline prices are usually double U.S. prices. Rental rates vary from $50-$75 per day (discounts for weekly rentals); www.eleutheracarrentals.com.
Getting there: American Airlines offers $464 round-trip rates via Miami to North Eleuthera (ELH). A seven-day advance required. Two can "Fly Free to the Bahama Out Islands" from Nassau with a four-night stay at participating hotels through Oct. 31 (blackouts: March 4-April 14). Book by June 30. Round-trip rates from Atlanta to Nassau are $333, nonstop on Delta with a seven-day advance required. For more, visit www.myoutislands.com.
BUDGET
Stay: Modest Tropical Dreams Motel Resort offers six rooms — all with a kitchen. The locale is also ideal for bonefishing flats, reefs and birding. Stay seven nights and pay for six, year-round. Nightly rates from $105, including taxes, surcharges. A two-bedroom unit is $158 per night. North Palmetto Point. 242-332-1632, www.tropicaldreamsmotelresort.com.
Eat: Locals and tourists gather on sandy Anchor Bay for fun Bahamian nightlife and a fish fry every Friday evening starting about 8 p.m. It's located next to the Haynes library in Governor's Harbour, and you can enjoy fresh fish and grilled chicken; about $10.
Experience: Visitors to the 25-acre Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve can walk miles of trails through native habitat and view the beautiful orchids, medicinal plants, and the hardwood trees that played an important role in the history of the island. It is the first national park of Eleuthera. Ask about guided tours with the preserve's staff of botanists; $5. Banks Road. 242-332-3831, www.levypreserve.org.
MODERATE
Stay: Situated on 50 lush acres, Buttonwood Reserve features condos that are built on a ridge above the Caribbean with unobstructed ocean views from every room. Watch the sun rise over the Atlantic and set over the Caribbean Sea. Amenities include a 3-mile stretch of private pink sand beach on the Atlantic and a smaller beach on the Caribbean, pool, a pond with a private nature preserve, gas grill and bicycles. Two-bedroom, two-bath units from $300 per night. A mile farther is the village of James Cistern, which has a good grocery store, a town dock where the fishermen bring their catch every day, a produce stand, and two small local restaurants, Kel-d's and Lee's Cafe. It is also the home of Stubb's famous barbecue (11 a.m.-3 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays). 239-482-8173, www.buttonwoodreserve.com.
Eat: The Front Porch is a charming beachfront restaurant with just a few tables outdoors to catch a sunset over Hatchet Bay. Menus change daily depending on the fresh catch. Reservations suggested. $10-$30. 56937 Hatchet Bay Limited Settlement, 242-335-0727.
Experience: Take a 3.5-hour dune buggy expedition with lunch on Lighthouse Beach ($150); a four-hour guided bus tour of some of the settlements and fishing villages of South Eleuthera ($99) or partake in the five-hour Taste of Eleuthera ($89). Rock Sound. 242-334-2356, www.eleutheraadventuretours.com.
SPLURGE
Stay: Sky Beach Club is one of only four resorts situated directly on the water. Modern bungalows (549 square feet) for couples feature a spacious and private patio adjacent to the resort's oceanfront infinity pool. Rates through Feb. 7 are $325; $395 Feb. 8-April 21. Resort amenities include more than a mile of private pink sand beach, hot tub, swim-up cocktail bar, offshore snorkeling reefs and a fine-dining restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Queen's Highway, Governors Harbour. 242-422-9597, www.skybeachclub.com.
Eat: Tippy's Bar & Restaurant is located on an Atlantic beach, serving lunch from 12:30-2:30 p.m.; dinner from 6-10 p.m., and drinks with a sea view. Open-air gazebos sit directly on the beach with a wraparound dining veranda. A daily changing chalkboard menu highlights the finest local produce and seafood. Lunch $8.50-$21; dinner up to $38. Reservations suggested. Banks Road, North Palmetto Point. 242-332-3331, www.pineapplefields.com.
Experience: Captain Julius "Bubba" of Fishbone Tours guides half-day deep sea fishing trips ($500); snorkeling ($400 for up to four people); half-day bonefishing for two ($350) and adventure trips. Tours can be customized. Savannah Sound. 242-464-0039, www.fishbonetours.com.
About the Author
