Roy Sakuma placed the tips of my fingers on the strings of his ukulele. My only lesson from the master of the instrument on my first day in the Hawaiian Islands. He taught me a simple Hawaiian tune, as we sat together in the soaring, sun-drenched lobby of the Four Seasons Resort in Ko Olina, Oahu.
I had flown across the Pacific the day before to begin my 12-day Extraordinary Experience stay at a quartet of Four Seasons Resorts on the islands of Oahu, Maui, Hawaii (Big Island) and Lanai. Sakuma seemed to be the perfect person to initiate my foray into their rich cultural life. He told me that in 1879 immigrants from Portugal arrived with a small guitarlike instrument.
I bid Sakuma “Mahalo” (thank you) and returned to my suite with its two spacious balconies perched on the 14th floor high above the glistening Pacific. It was so comfortable that I was reluctant to leave, but the adult-only 37.5-meter long infinity pool was beckoning. The heated water encouraged long swims and lingering looks at the breaching whales, and from my private poolside cabana a perfect view of the seemingly digitally enhanced sunset.
Credit: Carol Ann Davidson
Credit: Carol Ann Davidson
Unlike the bustle of the Waikiki side of the island, the 2-year-old Four Seasons resides on the west coast of Oahu, the choice retreat for the former Hawaiian royalty who christened it Ko Olina meaning “Place of Joy.” Three hundred seventy rooms and suites showcase a sophisticated use of traditional Hawaiian woods and fabrics, including the outstanding Penthouse and President’s Suite. All are well served by the 750 staff who graciously attend to the quests at three main restaurants, three pools, a sprawling spa with its rooftop tennis courts and a myriad of marine activities. Long racing canoes whizz by, forever a tribute to the Polynesians, the first inhabitants of these islands, who braved the journey from the South Pacific guided only by the stars. The centerpiece of the lobby is an impressive specimen (41 feet by 4 feet) hewed from one Koa tree and that belonged to Prince Kuhio at the dawn of the 20th century.
My 21st century appetite was well served by the inventive chefs who created original dishes including multiple riffs on poke, the raw fish salad that has become a Hawaiian trademark. The Sunday brunch was an eye-popping affair with mounds of fresh shellfish just plucked from the sea as a sushi chef sliced into fresh Japanese tuna wielding his knife as expertly as a Samurai warrior; smooth as silk papayas and King pineapples; a mixture of Asian food and American, low fat and high.
The next morning, with my lei made from 41 white orchids draped around my neck, I bid “Mahalo” and headed to the airport for my half-hour flight to the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea where I was greeted with “Aloha’ and pale pink lei.
It was mating season in Maui. The humpback whales were investing in their future. The surf was up and I was in my kayak, paddling out to sea. Well, with less bravado on my part, as I and three others, were guided by a veteran kayaker associated with the resort’s Undersea Adventure Tours. We were hoping to get up close to the mothers and their calves but that was not to be. We did however witness the tail-slapping behavior of a few magnificent mammals and that was thrilling enough. Our “bravery” was rewarded by another Hawaiian specialty — shaved ice treats from the resort’s kiosk near the beach.
The resort reminded me of drawings of vast estates of Roman senators — imposing, grand, multiple pillars and sculpted garden atriums and lawns. A thousand employees and 383 guestrooms and suites. At 28 years, it is Hawaii’s oldest Four Seasons property with a recent multimillion dollar facelift by its owner Michael Dell, founder and CEO of Dell Computer Corp.
Dinner at Wolfgang Puck’s Spago was a bittersweet affair: food was fine, but the atmosphere a bit too frenetic for my taste. It felt rather like being at the end of an assembly line with the waiters alighting and leaving almost as quickly as the little birds pecking for food. I had more leisurely meals at both Ferraro’s and Duo Steak and Seafood. Spoiler alert, Duo presented its guests with a post dessert, dessert — a cloud of pink cotton candy presented on a platter.
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Credit: Carol Ann Davidson
Credit: Carol Ann Davidson
Day 2, 6:30 a.m.: A limousine, a driver, a photographer and a picnic basket greeted me at the front entrance of the resort. A full day was to unfurl along the spectacular drive toward the town of Hana on Maui’s east coast. This adventure is part of Four Seasons Maui’s “Unforgettable Experiences” series. We drove along signature hairpin turns and single-lane bridges, ascending into the bamboo forest, passing stands of fresh fruit and shaved ice stands. Daniel Sullivan, Maui’s nationally acclaimed fine art photographer, knew all of nature’s secrets in the area: waterfalls, taro fields, vegetation indigenous to the island.
On my final morning in Maui I was treated to a hot stone massage laced with liquid lavender in a cozy thatched hut by the sea. Wrenching myself from such total relaxation was difficult. But “Aloha” was calling from Hawai’i and one should never refuse a warm welcome.
The island, Hawai’i, nicknamed the Big Island, is almost twice as large as all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and is the youngest as well. As I drove toward the resort, which is near the active volcano Hualalai, I felt I had landed on another planet. Acres of gigantic black lava rocks, as if thrown by disgruntled ancient gods, bracketed the modern highway. This scene soon turned into a lush, gentle tropical vegetation as we passed the Jack Nicklaus 18-hole golf course and arrived at Michael Dell’s Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai.
As I strolled around the vast property I came upon the general store with rocking chairs on the veranda and inside everything a guest would need. At the unique Ka’upulele Center, guests were making leis and learning about the history and culture of the Hawaiian Islands. All of the 125 guest rooms and 51 suites and villas were within 200 feet of the Pacific Ocean and each with its private outdoor lava-stone shower.
My favorite of several restaurants was “Ulu,” where the young and passionate Chef Chad suggested the charred local octopus as a starter. For the main course, Misoyaki Kampachi, a mushroom dish that made truffles seem ordinary. The dessert specialty was a toffee souffle, need I say more?
The spa is world class, hands down. An oasis of tranquility nestled outdoors surrounded by lava stone walls, flowering trees, plunge pools and steam rooms. My treatment at night in a room with its own private garden was one of a handful of my most memorable spa experiences ever.
The following morning after devouring a hearty Asian breakfast, I wandered down to King’s Pond where I met up with David Chai. He’s the resort’s natural resources director who oversees the preservation of a group of unique ecosystems in the area. King’s Pond is a 1.5 million-gallon natural pool carved out of lava harboring 100 different species. In the nearby wetland habitat, an ancient fishing area, endangered birds have found refuge.
Four Seasons Resort Lana’i was the last of my one-of-a-kind “Extraordinary Experiences” signature tours of the four Four Seasons Resorts. I’ve nicknamed the island the Oracle of Lana’i, as Larry Ellison, head of Oracle Corp. owns not only the resort but 98 percent of this 90,000-acre island.
Ellison’s legendary hands-on attention to detail is evident throughout. The 213 guestrooms, housed on two levels, were inspired by Hawai’i’s Polynesian ancestry; walls of teak and zebra wood, mahogany floors, handwoven area rugs, leather-trimmed custom beds and a mixture of natural fabrics creating a rich and relaxed atmosphere. The technology used in the lighting and window blind systems were, to use an overused, but in this case, appropriate description, state of the art.
The landscape artist created a little Eden (with no apple trees) — a place to sequester yourself from the rest of the world … to dream. I followed the meandering stream as it wended its way from one end of the property to the other. Waterfalls enriched it and colorful koi chased one another through the water lilies. Palm, bamboo trees and an abundance of flowers provided a quiet sanctuary feeling that you had the entire resort to yourself.
The food was no less exceptional. Excellent breakfast and dinner at One Forty was enhanced by the panoramic view of the ocean and framed by a terrace of pink bougainvillea. Make sure you try the chocolate and coconut macaroons! At Nobu, Chef Matsuhisa produced a seven-course dining event with melt-in-your mouth sashimi, Kobe beef sizzling on its own hot stone, and a sinfully delicious molten chocolate dessert. Malibu Farms, perched above Hulopo’e Bay, is an open-air lunch hub with its own small vegetable garden, and whether or not you play golf, the nearby 18-hole Jack Nicklaus designed golf course serves light lunches in a restaurant appropriately named View.
In December 2018 a completely redesigned Four Seasons in the Koele area of Lanai’i will open as a resort/spa destination.
So, I guess my next trip to Hawai’i will turn into a quintet of Four Seasons Resorts. Hawai’i Five-Oh.
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