This tray is something to relish in Reynoldstown

The relish tray served at Midwest family gatherings always was a favorite of mine. It offered bits and bobs of foodstuffs skewered with wooden toothpicks or plastic swords. Finding such a snack tray on the menu at Whoopsie’s in Reynoldstown gave me a homey, nostalgic feeling, just as the restaurant intends.

The snack tray at Whoopsie’s is like a jazz improvisation — things on it change with seasons and culinary whims, but there is a basic foundation. There always are pickled items. Sometimes, there are deviled eggs. On my visit, the tray had a tender, chilled pork terrine that was terrific on toast points and was accented with house-made chow chow, which was briny and crisp. A fermented item usually is in the mix, too. A mound of thick, sharp pimento cheese is a staple that pairs well with all the other treats.

The throwback, cafeteria-style partitioned tray of treats is shareable, but it also makes a fun entree for one. And, like jazz, it is conceptually simple, but altogether complex.