This off-the-cob Chamblee dessert is sweet and savory

Heirloom varietals of corn are the muses of the kitchen at Atlanta’s new Oaxaca restaurant. As you fill up on crisp chips and durable tortillas made from the house-ground masa, save room for dessert — specifically, the deconstructed corn husk meringue.

The savory-sweet dessert uses corn in three ways. What strikes the eye first is an artistic dusting of black powder. Made from charred, ground corn husks, the black particles turn up the flavor.

Pastry chef Faye Jonah makes a silky mousse from fresh corn kernels. Centering the plate, each spoonful brings the lush flavor of summer sweet corn, as well as fresh vanilla bean. A swirl of citrusy, tangy hibiscus syrup, which Oaxaca uses in its agua fresca, counterbalances the sweetness, and adds a jolt of color.