Find a childhood treat that’s all grown-up at this Atlanta restaurant

They essentially are a grown-up version of a Tater Tot, so when a stack of potato Macaire arrived at my table on the patio of Staplehouse, my first instincts were childlike. I wanted to build a tiny potato cabin out of the golden logs. However, after tasting them, I realized just how good a potato can be in the right hands.

A glorious, delicately crisp crust gives way to a fluffy interior of potato puree, and the size, shape and color of the logs are consistent. The transformation from a humble potato to a craveable delicacy is a marvel of execution.

For dipping pleasure — and, boy, are these potato batons fun to dip — there is an accompanying black garlic chili aioli that is speckled with herbs. It’s a rich emulsion, with overtones of spice running through each taste. The fermentation of the black garlic adds a concentrated, earthy sweetness to the kick.