There is a new contender for best chicken wing in town, and it comes from the Ginsberg’s Refresher food truck at Wild Heaven Beer in Avondale Estates.

The Chinese takeout box from the truck, helmed by much lauded local restaurateur Todd Ginsberg, is full of piping hot, hefty drums and flats. The sense you get with that first bite is sweet, warm spice, with just a hint of heat. Then your lips will tingle a bit from the fragrant, flavor-packed combination of Sichuan peppercorn, rice wine vinegar, chiles and cilantro.

But what you might find yourself fixating on is the kitchen’s technique. The flavor is delivered via a super crisp, craggy skin that unlocks a treasure of juicy meat. The wings are browned perfectly, and the intense crunch is as shattering as cracking a spoon through the top of a creme brulee.

In this dish, you’ll find all the qualities of a superior wing: the crackly exterior; the juicy, tender insides with clean chicken essence; and a balance of flavors, aroma and heat.

Wild Heaven Beer. 135B Maple St., Avondale Estates. 404-997-8589, wildheavenbeer.com

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