From appetizer to dessert, 4 dishes to try this February

For appetites large and small, these delightful dishes are worth seeking in Atlanta this month.

Marinated Mussels at BoccaLupo
Before you decide which of BoccaLupo’s pastas to order, start with the enchanting mussels antipasti. The tender, meaty mussels are marinated to enhance their tidal salinity, sharpened, not masked, by the marinade’s acidic edge. Nests of celery root remoulade offer crisp, tangy flavors, with a cool, earthy crunch, highlighted by the umami punch of furikake capers. They rest atop thick-cut French croutons, crisped in butter to a deep, resonant gold with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and fronds of micro cilantro.
Pooled around the plate is a feast for the eyes as much as the taste buds. The striking emulsion is vibrant and verdant. Packed with parsley, basil and emulsified and seeded jalapeno, it isn’t just a garnish, but a cooling, herbaceous counterpart that makes the mussels pop with intensity. Chef Bruce Logue calls it an acqua pazza, likening it to the spicy “crazy water” in which southern Italian fishermen poach a fresh catch. Use the buttery crouton to scoop up every drop of the slick green sauce.
753 Edgewood Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-577-2332. boccalupoatl.com.

Signature Sampler at Bobo Izakaya
The Signature Sampler at the newly opened Bobo Izakaya is a culinary pleasure. A nine-compartment bamboo tray is packed with a spread of izakaya-style small bites on pretty little dishes, some hot and some cold.
One square holds pan-fried gyoza, the golden crescent enveloping savory mince. Its neighbor is a cool, slippery snap of wakame seaweed salad dressed in sesame vinaigrette. Dashi-rich takoyaki (battered octopus) topped with katsuobushi flakes sits next to sashimi-style octopus on lettuce leaves. A corner holds craggy clusters of karaage fried chicken chunks. The center row includes a cool slab of sashimi salmon with ginger and wasabi accompaniments. Crisp spring rolls are cut to bite size. Plump, steamed shumai fill a spot, accompanied by a dipping sauce. Fans of edamame will appreciate the heaping pile of pods in a corner compartment.
It’s a perfectly curated, snackable presentation of umami-rich bites, great for sharing but also an ideal lunch for one.
2899 N. Druid Hills Road, Atlanta. 404-985-1091, boboizakaya.com.

Murgh Makhani at Everest Gorkhali Kitchen
Murgh Makhani is easy to fall for at Everest Gorkhali Kitchen. The dish resembles the Punjabi classic butter chicken, but with a slightly smokier profile.
Cooked in a tandoor clay oven, the charred, smoky chicken is bright red from a slow-cooked tomato reduction. The velvety sauce is both heavy and bright, giving the chicken a glossy coating and imparting floral aromatics and tang, along with a ruddy sheen. An array of spices — such as garam masala, ginger, turmeric, garlic, coriander and chile powder — adds depth and herbaceousness to the sauce. It’s served with fluffy basmati rice to balance the emulsion.
3977 Lawrenceville Highway, Tucker. 770-496-0307, everestgorkhalikitchen.com.
Mini Mango at Bar Ana
The look of the Mini Mango perfectly accompanies the tropical vibes of Bar Ana’s moody, blush-pink walls and vine-covered ceiling. Plated with precision in an interplay of color, flavors and texture, it’s a strikingly visual dish, offering tantalizing mango flavors with every spoonful.
Enclosed in a pristine, eggshell-thin sphere of white chocolate, the filling reveals a surprising light-and-airy mango mousse and curd highlighted with bright acidity. Colored to look like a fresh, ripe mango, the white chocolate sits atop a crumble of toasty, buttery coconut crunch, a pleasant counterpoint to the fruity mango compote below. Highlighting the burst of tropical color and flavor are branchlike sprigs of dark chocolate. The bitterness is a pleasant contrast to the mango’s sharp tropical sweetness. I found myself enjoying the “twig” both on its own and dipped into the mousse. Pro tip: pair Mini Mango with any of Bar Ana’s tropical cocktails.
939 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta. 470-763-9626, baranaatl.com.

