Try these American-produced amari that rival Old World counterparts
We are writing this on the first day of fall, and while the weather has not shifted dramatically in Georgia, there are a few leaves on the ground and we are starting to crave spiced beverages.
We don’t mean the annual explosion of everything pumpkin spice. Rather, we’re talking about the much more bitter and stomach-soothing liqueur known as amaro.
You might be familiar with amaro — perhaps having had a black Manhattan, where the sweet vermouth is swapped out for a bitter amaro such as Averna. Amaro means “bitter” in Italian and Spanish. In those cultures, macerating bitter herbs and spices in wine or spirits produced a pleasant sipper that, when consumed after a big meal, had soothing effects on the stomach. Amaro is one of the best digestifs for relieving the feeling of being overly full.
We also enjoy its rich, bitter qualities as a nightcap — either neat or on the rocks. It usually is a bit lower in alcohol (the ones we are featuring range from 60 to 72 proof, compared with 80 to 100-plus proof for whiskey or brandy). Also, the warm spices, such as cinnamon, clove and allspice, will be delightful once a cold snap does hit North Georgia.
Here are our picks for recent American-produced amari that give their Old World European counterparts a run for their money.
Murrell’s Row Spirits barrel-rested Eno amaro. From Murrell’s Row in Decatur comes the latest iteration of Eno amaro. The much written about trio of Bo Brown, Ferrol Lee Mayfield and Nathan Evick crafted the original Eno, which had an Old World classic bitterness, from their homemade cola recipe. This barrel-rested version softens the edges of the amaro and turns up the cola notes, especially with the addition of more vanilla. We also tasted notes of allspice, chocolate and the pleasant, cool herbs of a Fisherman’s Friend lozenge.
January Spirits amaro. January Spirits come from Greenport, New York, on the North Fork of Long Island. The company was created in 2020 by New York City bartenders Jon Langley and Lucky Preksto. They make a gin, a genepy (an Alpine-style herbal liqueur) and an amaro. Their amaro has a uniquely American twist with the addition of coffee and roasted chicory (à la New Orleans) and New York honey. It is rested in used rye whiskey barrels for three months. We tasted notes of old-fashioned birch beer, cold brew coffee, clove-spiked orange and cool mint.
Forthave Spirits Marseille amaro. Forthave is a project of friends Aaron Fox and Daniel de la Nuez in the New York borough of Brooklyn. The amaro name comes from the French town of Marseille — where in medieval times four thieves were caught stealing from plague victims, but were granted clemency in exchange for their secret amaro recipe. We tasted notes of eucalyptus, honey and cinnamon, along with an intense bitterness. Marseille has the highest proof (72) among these three picks, is the most bitter and yet has the lightest body.
