Peach pizza, a fancy anchovy sandwich and other dishes to try this month

Basil would have been an expected finishing touch but instead leaves of arugula topped the pie once it was removed from the oven. That provided an unexpected, bright, peppery pop. A drizzle of warm balsamic amplified all the flavors into a cohesive, memorable taste of the season.

725 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-205-5183, indacorestaurant.com

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Santo molcajete at Santo Cielo

Sometimes, carved volcanic rock is used as a mortar, or molcajete, for grinding spices with a pestle. Other times, it is heated and used to serve a bevy of meats and vegetables.

Here, grilled skirt steak sputtered as it hit the hot edges of the molcajete, and a slab of panela cheese melted a bit against the heat. Marinated, head-on prawns hung onto the lip of the bowl, ready to be dipped into one of the house-made sauces.

Meanwhile, seared jalapeño and grilled paddles of cactus tasted much like asparagus, hot dogs sliced lengthwise felt unexpected and carnivalesque, and large pieces of chicken breast had been pounded thin and then grilled, yet remained tender and juicy.

Everything benefited from the sauce simmering in the bottom of the hot bowl: salsa verde with pieces of chorizo and onion slivers.

The savory mélange came with smoky charro beans, a heap of seasoned rice and a choice of corn or flour tortillas.

3479 Chamblee Tucker Road, Atlanta. 470-275-4332, santocieloatl.com

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Anchovy and butter tartine at Madeira Park

This dish shows how a few perfectly chosen ingredients that are thoughtfully layered can come together in delicate interplay.

The seamless synergy began with a canvas of crusty bread. Toasty sourdough from nearby Colette Bread was earthy, tangy and gave this open-faced sandwich the perfect punch of flavor.

A thick layer of French butter had been smoothed over the triangular crisps, followed by strips of briny, oil-packed anchovies, as well as radish, parsley leaves and pickled onion.

A bite began with a pleasing crunch, while creamy butter provided balance to the salty intensity of the anchovies, which offered a concentrated burst of umami. The radishes and parsley punched things up with cool, herbal notes while the pickled onion provided a pungent sweetness and bright acidity.

I paired the gloriously simple dish with a crisp, yeasty grower Champagne, but the well-informed staff can point you to numerous possibilities on the wine bar’s extensive list.

640 N. Highland Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-228-2058, madeiraparkatl.com.

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Credit: Angela Hansberger

Communidad salad at Communidad Taqueria

We came for the tacos and burritos made with Communidad’s house-made tortillas, but I couldn’t stop thinking about the salad.

It began with a base of arugula and romaine hearts from local farms, with the fresh leaves cut into bite-size portions. There were plump, marinated black beans throughout the bowl. Red onion pickled with hibiscus added sweet acidity. Soft crumbles of queso fresco complemented each bite with tanginess. I found myself hunting around for the candied pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds) — so nutty, sweet and crunchy.

What tied it all together was a vibrant jalapeño green goddess dressing. I imagined a blender whizzing up a wallop of fresh herbs and peppers to create such herbaceous color and depth of flavor. And shreds of crispy tortilla strips topped the abundant bowl.

I added chicken asada to the crunchy greens, which turned the side salad into a meal.

655 Highland Ave., Atlanta. communidadatl.com