Weekend in Passau, Germany, one of three ways: on a budget, spending a bit more, or when the getaway calls for a splurge.
Trip tips: Passau is located in Germany's far southeast corner near the Austrian border and on the crossing of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers. Passau reflects the look and the feel of a prosperous 17th-century community, complete with narrow lanes, cobblestone streets, distinctive architecture, an imposing cathedral, a lovely city hall, shops for merchants and artisans (Hoellgasse) and many car-free zones to stroll. In May 2013, Passau suffered its worst flooding in 500 years. Renovations continue today in the lower parts of the old town. When dialing direct: 011 followed by 49 (country code) + 851 (city code) + phone number.
Getting there: The drive from Munich is just over two hours. Delta Air Lines offers rates $1,290 on Aug. 24-Oct. 25 midweek departures; from $1,220 on Oct. 26-Dec. 11 departures and from $1,415 during the year-end holiday season (based on a 10-night minimum stay).
BUDGET
Stay: Hotel Passauer Wolf is located just steps to the Danube and boat docks. On site are a sauna and steam room, a bar and terrace. Room rates start from 75 euros including breakfast. Rindermarkt 6. 931510. www.hotel-passauer-wolf.de.
Eat: Towering chestnut trees at Bayerischer Lowe (Bavarian Lion) shade a lovely beer garden — a perfect stop for a snack or small meal (5-17 euros). The charming interior serves a number of regional and house specialties. Dr.-Hans-Kapfinger-Strasse 3. 958010, www.wirtshaus-passau.de.
Experience: Pick up an electronic guide and map at the new Town Hall Tourist Center to enjoy a guided tour of the Three Rivers City; 7.50 euros up to three hours, 2.50 euros each additional headset. Bahnhofstrasse 28. 955980, http://english.passau.de. The three green-domed towers of St. Stephen's Cathedral are the city's tallest structures. It also boasts of having the largest Catholic cathedral organ in the world with nearly 18,000 pipes! Thirty-minute concerts are presented at noon daily (through Oct. 31), except Sundays and holidays; 4 euros. Domplatz. 3931311, www.bistum-passau.de.
MODERATE
Stay: Hotel Residenz was built on the foundation of a 400-year-old merchant house and renovated to an elegant contemporary hotel located on the Danube waterfront. Rates with breakfast are 110-159 euros, doubles; 129-169 euros, suite; and 199-239 euros, junior suite with a private roof deck. Fritz-Schäffer-Promenade 6. 989020, www.residenz-passau.de/en.
Eat: Enjoy an authentic taste of Tuscany at Cucina Pura Toscana. Owner Gabriella and her sons use only Tuscan-certified products that come from the traditional family farms. Menus change frequently, but homemade pasta and desserts are staples. Entrees average 15 euros. Rosengasse 4. 37117, www.cucinapuratoscana.de.
Experience: Explore the Danube with a bike rental, a tandem or e-bike from a little shop at the northwest end of Passau's old town. Rentals range from 9-12 euros per day. Rosstränke 12. 72226, www.fahrradladen-passau.de. After reluctantly visiting themselves, most tourists rave about the Glasmuseum, the world's largest museum of Bohemian glass with 30,000 pieces on five floors; 7 euros. Höllgasse 1. 35071, www.glasmuseum.de.
SPLURGE
Stay: The Weisser Hase (White Hare) opened as an inn in 1512, and has been family owned and run since 1957. The inn celebrates the old town Christmas market with a two-night package including superior accommodations, breakfast buffet, a festive candlelit dinner and use of the sauna for 250 euros, double; Heiliggeistgasse 1. 9211, www.weisser-hase.de. Nearly 70 little wooden stalls sell gifts, art, toys and crafts at the Passau Christkindlmarkt (Nov. 26-Dec. 23). Specialties and food include Lebkuchen (gingerbread), Glühwein (warm spiced wine) and bratwurst.
Eat: Soak up the atmosphere of a rustic inn dating back to 1358. Heilig-Geist-Stiftskeller features vaulted ceilings, a cellar with an open fireplace and a garden. Passau's historic wine bar offers traditional and local delicacies, fresh fish (from the garden tank) and fine wines. Fixed menu prices from 19 euros; a la carte, 18-46 euros. Heiliggeistgasse 4. 2607, www.stiftskeller-passau.de.
Experience: Take a short cruise between Passau and Linz, the capital of Upper Austria. The boat will pass Engelszell Abbey and continue through the unspoiled Upper Danube Valley, with its spectacular scenery — including a pass through of the Schlögen Loop (where the Danube takes a 180-degree turn). This cruise package is offered through Oct. 5 and Saturdays from Oct. 11-25. Per person rates from 109.50 euros, based on double occupancy. Included is a welcome drink; lunch; an overnight in a four-star Linz hotel with breakfast and a return trip to Passau by bus, train or ship. Höllgasse 26. 929292, www.donauschiffahrt.de.
About the Author
