A weekend in ... Nashville

Eat: Monell's serves southern German-style breakfasts, lunches and dinners inside a brick Victorian house or seasonally in a lovely garden. Tables are shared and dishes are passed family-style. All you care to eat dinners, including skillet-fried chicken, meats of the day, hot vegetables, salads, dessert, biscuits and drinks are $16.02 Fridays, Saturday; $16.43 Sundays; 1235 6th Ave. N., 615-248-4747, www.monellstn.com.

Experience: A must for first-time visitors is a one-hour city sightseeing trolley tour (five daily departures) which passes through historic sections of downtown, past Ryman Auditorium, the State Capitol, the Parthenon, Vanderbilt Museum, Country Music Hall of Fame, Fort Nashborough, Bicentennial Mall, and Music Row. Adult e-tickets are $14.95, 1-888-881-3279, www.nashvillesightseeing.com.

Moderate

Getting there: Round-trip rates start at $442 with a 7-day advance purchase notice; nonstop Delta.

Stay: If you like big, sprawling resorts, choose the Gaylord Opryland Hotel with seven acres of sumptuous gardens, waterfalls, a wide range of dining and lounge choices, a swanky spa and gym and several pools. The hotel is within walking distance to the Grand Old Opry and Museum (complimentary hotel shuttle service to all major attractions) or a short riverboat cruise to downtown. A one-night "Romance" package, priced at $270, includes champagne and strawberries upon arrival, breakfast, spa discount, admission to Fuse or Wildhorse Saloon, an Opryland VIP coupon book (valued at more than $250), parking and resort fee. Two-night packages are $478 per couple; Gaylord Drive, 1-888-777-6779, www.gaylordhotels.com.

Eat: It's worth a 20-mile drive out of town to partake in the "whole hog" at Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint. A Big Mama Sampler, priced at $20, feeds two people; 7215 Nolensville Rd., Nolensville, 615-776-1856, www.martinsbbqjoint.com. Opened in 1954,  Swett's is a "meat and three" soul kitchen with famous chicken; under $15, 2725 Clifton Ave, 615-329-4418.

Experience: It's all about the music. Catch "Best of Country Music Dinner & Show" on select evenings at the Nashville Nightlife Theater; $26 show only; $39.95 with dinner; 2620 Music Valley Dr., 1-800-308-5779, www.nashvillenightlife.com. Dozens of other music venues are listed at www.nashvillenet.com/nitelife.htm.

Splurge

Getting there: Avoid the cattle-car scene by booking an economy-class airfare on one of Delta's 50-seat nonstop regional jets. Walk-up, round-trip rates are $722 vs. a first-class seat priced at more than $1,500.

Stay: The historic Hermitage Hotel features a grand two-story lobby, an attraction all its own with a Tiffany glass and 24-karat gold ceiling. Even the Art Deco men's room is considered one of "America's Best Restrooms" (www.bestrestroom.com). Ladies, it's OK to peek. A "Red Wine and Chocolate" package includes a night's stay in an amenity-filled guest room and wine and chocolate tasting. Rates begin at $259; 231 6th Ave. N., 1-888-888-9414, www.thehermitagehotel.com.

Eat: For a taste of Tuscany and Provence, reserve a place at Margot Cafe & Bar. This cozy, fine dining establishment is in historic east Nashville. Menus change daily with entrees priced from $16-$40; Sunday brunch items $5-$12. www.margotcafe.com, 1017 Woodland St., 615-227-4668.

Experience: The General Jackson, a historic and grand 300-foot paddlewheel riverboat, is the largest showboat in the world. Enjoy the performance, "Country Music USA," a nostalgic journey through America's music -- from icons of the Grand Ole Opry to the blockbuster hits of today. The 3-4 hour cruise, dinner and show is $96 per person; 2812 Opryland Dr., 615-458-3900, www.generaljackson.com.