Visit Bruges, Belgium (Brugge in Dutch) one of three ways: On a budget, spending a bit more, or when the getaway calls for a splurge.
Trip tips: Bruges is about 56 miles from Brussels. The medieval center is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Take in a different view of the city from a boat cruise on the canals. Starting in late March, boats depart from jetties south of Burg Square and cruises last about 30 minutes. All city museums are closed on Mondays. When dialing direct, use the prefix 011 followed by 32 (country code) and 50 (city code) and the phone number. Prices are also shown in euros. For practical visitor information, visit www.brugge.be.
Getting there: Round-trip rates of $1,027 to Brussels are valid on departures through March 31; $75 higher April 1-May 16. From Brussels, rail travel takes an hour; from $25 (19€) one-way. www.raileurope.com. The walk to the historic center from the Bruges rail station is 10 minutes.
BUDGET
Stay: Bonobo Apart Hotel is located about five blocks from Markt Square and just behind St. Salvator's Church. A modern apartment with a living room, cosy corner, bath and shower is $100 (78€), including a kitchenette and end-of-stay housekeeping; $128 (98€) with breakfast, WiFi and daily housekeeping. Goezeputstraat 5. 33-12-82; www.bonobo.be.
Eat: With just six tables, reservations are at must at Malesherbes, a bistro-delicatessen. Expect simple French cuisine such as beef Bourguignon, Breton fish soup, coq au vin or duck cassoulet, daily specials, fine wines and a warm welcome from the two sisters who are the owners. Dishes under $32 (25€). Stoofstraat 3-5. 33-69-24.
Experience: Visit medieval Burg Square and its landmarks — Bishop's Palace, the Town Hall, Old Civil Registry and the Holy Blood Basilica. Continue across a bridge to the lively Fish Market (Vismarkt, since 1821), where fresh North Sea fish are displayed on old stone slabs, Tuesday-Saturday mornings. Walk 10 minutes farther away from the tourist area toward authentic Bruges, with quiet, cobblestone streets. Step into the mysterious 15th century Church of Jerusalem and the adjacent Lace Museum. Peperstraat 3a. www.kantcentrum.eu. Another short walk leads to four windmills at the Kruisvest canal. Back in town, stop for a Belgian beer at the Duvelorium Grand Beer Cafe, with its impressive glass-and-lead dome. Grote Markt 1. www.historium.be.
MODERATE
Stay: A former 15th century convent, Hotel Orangerie oozes romance and luxury, with views (and a terrace) over the Den Dyver canal. Each guest room is individually decorated and furnished with antiques and art pieces. Rates from $215 (165€) in the Gate Room; from $293 (225€) in a luxury room. Champagne breakfast is extra. Stay three nights for the price of two on midweek stays in March. Kartuizerinnenstraat 10. 34-16-49, www.hotelorangerie.be.
Eat: The classy Gruuthuse Hof is one of the oldest restaurants in Bruges, circa 1751. When weather permits, try for one of a dozen seats on the terrace (inside seats for 28 guests). Specialties are Flemish stew ($22, 17€) and Bouillabaisse ($36, 28€). Starters $6.50-$23 (5€-18€); mains $19.50-$40 (15€-31€). Ask about a three-course tourist menu from $22 (17€). Mariastraat 36. 33-06-14, www.gruuthusehof.be.
Experience: One of the world's most unique museums is the Frietmuseum, dedicated to potato fries. Exhibits range from the origin of the potato to the first fry, told through art, music and film. It's housed in one of Bruges' oldest and best preserved historic buildings (dating to 1399). Post-tour tastings are included in the $7.80 (6€) admission. Vlamingstraat 33. www.frietmuseum.be. Another unique museum is Choco-Story, where visitors are immersed in the world of chocolate history and production, $9 (7€). Sint-Jansstraat 7b. www.choco-story.be. Don't miss the Groeningemuseum for its world-famous collection of Flemish primitive, renaissance and baroque masterpieces, $10 (8€). Dijver 12. 44-87-43, www.brugge.be.
SPLURGE
Stay: Built in the 16th century, Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is a romantic gem, with a half-timber facade, stained glass windows, antiques, and a modern art collection (Matisse, Klimt), situated on one of the city's most beautiful canals. Rooms feature Persian carpets, marble bathrooms, super king-size bed, period furniture and Ralph Lauren fabrics. Deluxe rooms from $350 (270€). Wollestraat 41. 33-79-26, www.relaisbourgondischcruyce.be.
Eat: House specialties at De Gouden Kroes (Golden Goblet) are North Sea fish and lean Limousin beef from France (steak tartare, salad and Belgian fries, $29 (22€). Shrimp, cod, sole, mussels, oysters and lobster dishes at this former pub range from $21 to $50 (16 to 38€). Hoogstraat 12. 35-82-88, www.degoudenkroes.be.
Experience: The most famous landmark on Bruges' central square is the medieval Belfry Tower, with 47 bells. Climb the 366 steps of this 272-foot tower for panoramic views of the city and surrounding areas, $10 (8€). Markt 7. Consider a Brugge City Card (48 hours, $50, 38€; 72 hours, $56, 43€) for numerous money-saving benefits. Included is admission to 26 museums, places of interest and attractions (Belfry, Choco-Story, De Halve Maan brewery), a secret tips visitors guide, round-trip travel on the canal, and 25 percent savings on concerts, theater, bike rentals and the option to purchase a three-day bus and tram pass for $7.80 (6€), which regularly is $15.50 (12€). www.bruggecitycard.be.
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