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RECIPE: With afternoon tea or wine after work, semolina cake hits spot

Toasting the pistachios and steeping them in milk will yield a beautifully green glaze, to set off a fragrant citrus cake. (Courtesy of Marie Restaino)
Toasting the pistachios and steeping them in milk will yield a beautifully green glaze, to set off a fragrant citrus cake. (Courtesy of Marie Restaino)
By Chris Wilkins – For the AJC
April 20, 2022

In my not very humble opinion, tea cakes are the best kind of cake. Simple, flavorful, and easy to throw together, they occupy a special category in the cake world: the snacking cake. Not quite rich enough for a birthday celebration, but still rustically impressive, snacking cakes are made for pairing with afternoon tea, or coffee, or even with a glass of wine after work.

This semolina cake leans into a few of my favorite flavor profiles — citrus and pistachios — and results in a fragrant, not too sweet, but very fulfilling afternoon treat. Feel free to get creative with whatever citrus you might have handy and even combine different fruits — grapefruit and lemon zest, for example, are an excellent combination.

Semolina Cake
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 3/4 cup semolina flour
  • 1/2 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup sugar
  • Zest of 2 oranges
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 2 cups olive oil
  • Pistachio Glaze
  • 1/3 cup chopped pistachios, toasted, for glaze, plus another 1/4 cup for garnish
  • 2/3 cup whole milk
  • 1 1/4 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
  • Heat the oven to 350 degrees, prepare a Bundt pan with cooking spray or rub well with butter and dust with flour.
  • Measure and sift all dry ingredients — all-purpose flour, semolina flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Combine and set aside.
  • Combine the sugar and orange zest, rubbing the mixture until the sugar is fragrant. Add to dry ingredients.
  • Whisk together eggs, orange juice and olive oil until combined.
  • Whisking continuously, add the combined dry ingredients into the wet. Whisk together until batter is smooth. If you see “lumps” of anything here, keep whisking. In baking, lumps are never a good thing.
  • Bake the cake for 25-30 minutes. Check for doneness by inserting a cake tester or toothpick in the middle of the cake. If that comes out clean — no batter, but a crumb or two on the tester is OK — then you’re done. If it seems like it needs more time, add another 3 minutes and check again. The cake will be extraordinarily fragrant.
  • While the cake is baking, gently heat milk and toasted pistachios for the glaze in a small saucepan, 3-5 minutes, until the milk just starts to simmer. Once you see small bubbles appear, remove the milk from heat, and cool the mixture, 10-15 minutes.
  • Once cool, strain the pistachios out of the milk, and add sifted confectioners’ sugar, and whisk together until your mixture is thick, but still pourable. If you run a spoon through the glaze, it should lazily come back together.
  • When finished baking, de-pan the cake, and allow to cool.
  • When the cake is fully cooled — not “mostly cooled” or “close enough,” but fully cooled — pour the glaze over the cake, allowing the glaze to run lazily down the sides. Top with some chopped toasted pistachios and serve. Makes 8 slices.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per slice: 730 calories (percent of calories from fat, 75), 9 grams protein, 38 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 62 grams total fat (9 grams saturated), 70 milligrams cholesterol, 211 milligrams sodium.

Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.

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About the Author

Chris Wilkins

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