RECIPE: No-recipe sauteed greens is an invitation to improvise
“Cooking without recipes is a kitchen skill, same as cutting vegetables or flipping an omelet,” writes Sam Sifton, The New York Times food editor and founding editor of NYT Cooking, in the introduction to the recently published “The New York Times Cooking No-Recipe Recipes” (Ten Speed Press, $28).
Rather than specify a precise list of measured ingredients and exacting instructions for using them, Sifton’s compilation of no-recipe recipes is “an invitation for you to improvise in the kitchen.”
Cooking in this manner, he proposes, helps to improve kitchen confidence and brings an element of fun to what, at times, can feel like drudgery.
I’m a no-recipe gal myself. There’s freedom in going off-script, especially since the ingredients I have on hand vary from day to day, as do my level of creativity and the amount of time I can apply that energy toward cooking.
The greens, garlic, raisins and pine nuts form the core for the wilted greens dish below. Warm heat coaxes out bitterness from greens and pungency from the garlic; raisins — currants or golden raisins would be fancy — offer sweetness; toasted pine nuts bring mild buttery flavor and crunch, although walnuts are good here, too. But, as you can see by the ingredients list below, other things are welcome to join the pan, and a splash of balsamic at the end gives it just the right mellowed tartness.
No-recipe Sauteed Greens and Things
This one-pot dish makes for a nice side, whether served warm or at room temperature. Toss in cooked cannellini beans or chickpeas near the end of cooking to boost the protein and elevate it to entree status. I like to serve it with crusty bread for sopping up the flavorful liquid released by the greens (and things) during cooking. Sometimes, I ditch a fork altogether and use the bread as a utensil.
Nutritional content has been omitted for this recipe because quantities and ingredients will vary depending on your cooking preferences.
- Swiss chard, beet tops, spinach or a combination
- Yellow squash, zucchini or both
- Onion
- Garlic
- Olive oil
- Raisins
- Balsamic vinegar
- Pine nuts
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
- Wash a bunch of Swiss chard. Roll the bunch up tightly like a cigar, then cut the leaves into about 1 1/2-inch strips and cut the stems into bite-size lengths. Keep the leaves separate from the stems.
- Cut the squash lengthwise in half, then cut each half into thin half-moons.
- Cut half an onion into thin slivers. Any onion will do, but red onion will be prettiest.
- Mince 2 or 3 garlic cloves, more if you like garlic.
- Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of a large saute pan or heavy-bottomed pot and warm it over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and garlic, and saute, stirring periodically. Once the onion begins to soften, add the squash, stirring to combine, then cover the pan with a lid to encourage the release of moisture. When the squash begins to soften and turn slightly golden, stir in the Swiss chard stems and lower the heat to medium. Put the lid back on and let it cook down a bit. After a few minutes, stir in the Swiss chard leaves and the raisins. Put the lid back on and let cook a few more minutes. Add a splash of balsamic vinegar, a handful of toasted pine nuts, a few pinches of salt and some cranks of freshly ground black pepper. Stir and adjust seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 4 as a side dish.
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About the Author
Ligaya Figueras is the AJC's senior editor for Food & Dining. Prior to joining the AJC in 2015, she was the executive editor for St. Louis-based culinary magazine Sauce. She has worked in the publishing industry since 1999 and holds degrees from St. Louis University and the University of Michigan.
