RECIPE: A vintage cheese recipe made new every time
I recently found a vintage New York Times recipe by Jacques Pépin. Fromage fort (the t is silent) spins leftover cheese into a spread served with crackers as an appetizer or melted over crusty bread for a heartier treat. I was curious – which combination of cheeses makes the very best fromage fort?
My cheese drawer offered a collection of cheddar for macaroni and cheese, fontina for pasta, Gorgonzola for salads and a few random wedges rescued from a friend’s charcuterie board. After delicious trial and error, I found cheddar, fontina and boursin, whipped together in the food processor, makes a lovely potted cheese.
But the spirit of fromage fort is to use whatever you have on hand, and I really wanted a recipe that works with any available cheese. And so I offer you this mantra to guide your own fromage fun: soft, sharp, stinky, tart. Use at least one ingredient from each category to curate a balanced mixture.
Soft: For a decadent texture, think fontina, havarti, burrata or Neufchatel. A splash of heavy whipping cream is a decent substitute. Surprisingly, brie and chevre do not fall into this category.
Sharp: Always add cheddar. Savory, subtle, ubiquitous.
Stinky: A little blue will do. Also brie and chevre. All have strong flavors that influence the entire dish. Minced garlic or fresh chives are good alternatives.
Tart: Not a cheese. A splash of something bright that balances the fatty flavor. Sauvignon blanc is your go-to here. Port pairs best with Gorgonzola. Lemon juice is a sober substitute, as is vegetable broth.
The four ingredients recommended in the recipe make an approachable, flavorful introduction to fromage fort and bubble beautifully when melted. If you are able, do as the ancestors did and throw multiple cheeses from each category into the mix. (Skip the slices of American, which do not blend and will add speckles of orange confetti throughout.) The results are complex, comforting and new every time.
- 2 ounces sharp cheese, like cheddar
- 2 ounces creamy cheese, like fontina
- 1/2 ounce fragrant cheese, like boursin
- 1 tablespoon dry white wine, like sauvignon blanc
- 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream, optional
- Remove rinds and dry spots from cheeses. Mold may be removed from hard cheeses. Soft cheeses with mold should be discarded and not used.
- In a food processor fitted with the S blade, pulse any hard cheeses until they crumble. Add remaining ingredients and run food processor again until cheeses are well combined and smooth, scraping down sides as needed. If a creamier texture is desired, add whipping cream and process again until smooth.
- Place cheese mixture in a ramekin. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight before serving for best flavor Keeps refrigerated 1 week. Makes 8 tablespoons.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per 1-tablespoon serving, without heavy cream: 65 calories (percent of calories from fat, 73), 4 grams protein, trace carbohydrates, no fiber, 5 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), 17 milligrams cholesterol, 110 milligrams sodium.— Adapted from a recipe by Jacques Pépin.
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