The street vendors of South Korea give new meaning to the letters KFC. At Pelicana in the Doraville H Mart’s food court, you can find Korean fried chicken in superlative form, and in several variations.

You choose your type of chicken (bone-in, boneless, piece-type, half or whole) and select from four batters and eight sauces. My choice is boneless crispy spicy chicken with the signature sweet, spicy sauce on the side. While I get it on the side, your chicken can be tossed in sauce (and it stays crispy because of double-frying). You also can have halves of your order in different sauces, or one half sauced and the other not.

The marinated, well-seasoned chicken gets double-battered, fried at a low temperature, then fried again. This ensures the chicken is cooked through, as well as eliminating any moisture left in the batter. Individually frying each order guarantees a hot product cooked to your specifications.

The result is moist, savory chicken with a hint of heat under a crunchy, crackly layer of skin.

Pelicana Chicken. 6035 Peachtree Road, Doraville. 770-905-7590, pelicanausa.com

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Toi Cliatt, Trina Martin and her son, Gabe Watson, say they were traumatized when an FBI SWAT team raided their Atlanta home by mistake in 2017. (Courtesy of Institute for Justice)

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