Asian-Mexican fusion at Atlanta restaurant strikes a perfect balance
At El Burro Pollo, the mostly Mexican food stall run by chef Hector Santiago, the kimchi quesadilla is a killer combination.
The thin flour tortilla crisps up beautifully on the grill, while retaining plenty of flexibility, so the quesadilla filling stays contained. The real Chihuahua cheese is rich and melty, with a mild tang. And, Korean kimchi makes a surprising, but perfect, addition of both flavor and texture. The bright acid enlivens the gooey cheese, while the cabbage adds some needed vegetal depth and a snappy crunch. The made-in-house kimchi is not overly acidic or pungent, and the cabbage retains a lot of its character.
Order a kimchi quesadilla from El Burro Pollo and you won’t ask, “What inspired this ingeniously simple fusion of Mexican and Asian ingredients?”
You’ll just be thinking, “How does this taste so good?”
El Burro Pollo. 765 W. Peachtree St., Atlanta. 404-500-2001, elburropollo.com.
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About the Author
Henri Hollis is a restaurant critic and food reporter for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, where he covers Atlanta’s restaurants, chefs and dining culture. As part of the AJC’s Food & Dining team, he reviews new restaurants, reports on industry trends and explores metro Atlanta’s culinary scene through the neighborhoods and people that shape it.
