Off to a smoking-hot start in Atlanta, Lewis Barbecue is already getting better
Impressive.
That’s the word that kept coming to mind during my recent visits to Lewis Barbecue in Ansley Mall. Amid the hype, accolades, long lines and social media frenzy, the Central Texas-style barbecue delivers.
The barbecue is not only excellent; it’s served with efficiency, which is not typically a hallmark of this restaurant category.
The new barbecue restaurant has a lavish buildout, relatively speaking, that is designed to handle a large crowd and slow-moving line. Despite its counter-service setup, the staff is helpful and pleasant, providing top-notch customer service. And when diners sit down with their food, any grumbles about wait times or high prices seem to float away like the smoke from the multimillion-dollar rooftop smokehouse.
When you visit Lewis Barbecue, standing in line is nearly inevitable. Each party orders, pays and is immediately served at the counter, so the process takes time. But there’s an upside to the system: you leave the register with your entire food order, so there’s no additional wait. You can sit down and dig in right away.
As if immediate order gratification isn’t enough, the service staff behind the counter employ a smart trick to make the wait more agreeable. As soon as you reach the register to place your order, they offer you a taste of brisket. That little treat is enough to mollify all but the grumpiest of customers, its rich flavor melting any frustration away like so much beef tallow.
That brisket is special, and the prices show that Lewis Barbecue knows it. Sliced brisket is $35 per pound, and the giant beef short rib, a Saturday special, is a dollar more. But the USDA Prime Angus beef is high quality; the smoke flavor is pure and persistent; and the tender, juicy meat is a textural masterpiece.
The quality comes not just from the meat and the barbecue process, both of which are top-class, but from the smokers themselves. John Lewis, the restaurant’s owner, designs and builds his own smokers to perfectly fit his barbecue method, making the end product all but impossible to copy.
Though all of the smoked meats available are excellent (pulled pork, pork spare ribs, two types of sausage), the turkey breast was the other true standout. The level of juiciness Lewis achieves in this often-dry cut defies culinary convention.
Several of Lewis Barbecue’s side dishes are also wonderful, though the supporting cast can’t quite match the starting lineup of meats. However, every side except for the beef tallow fried french fries is vegetarian, so meat abstainers can still tag along.
Unfortunately for the vegetarians, they’re missing out on the fries; they’re richly flavored thanks to the beef tallow and also benefit from a unique shape, a thick curlicue that’s almost like a spiralized steak fry.
Among the rest of the veggie-friendly sides, the green chile corn pudding is a star. It’s indulgent but well-balanced, with plenty of gooey cheese and sweet corn. The green beans are another Texas-influenced treat, stewed in a salsa-like red sauce that adds some zing and shows that the dish isn’t an afterthought.
In a similar vein, Lewis Barbecue’s servers offer to top pinto beans with a free dollop of pico de gallo, adding a bit of freshness to the hearty beans.
The collard greens were a little overcooked for my taste, edging past tender and into mushy territory. And the coleslaw and potato salad were good, but unremarkable.
Lewis Barbecue first opened in December, but the opening process is still unfolding. This week, Bar Lewis opened directly across the pedestrian courtyard from the main restaurant, bringing a full beverage program and a whole new menu of food items, from brisket nachos and a pork burrito to a green chile burger and a Caesar salad.
Together, the two spaces will form a more well-rounded and unique restaurant experience. Lewis Barbecue has instantly placed itself in the pantheon of the best barbecue spots in Atlanta; once it reaches its final form, it could become one of the top restaurants, too.
Lewis Barbecue
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: Texas-style barbecue
Service: intelligently organized and pleasant
Noise level: moderate to loud
Recommended dishes: sliced or chopped beef brisket, pulled pork, turkey breast, Texas hot guts sausage, el sancho sandwich, mac & cheese, stewed green beans, green chile corn pudding, tallow fried fries, cowboy pinto beans
Vegetarian dishes: potato salad, coleslaw, cowboy pinto beans, green chile corn pudding, collard greens, mac & cheese, green beans
Alcohol: beer only at time of last visit; full bar now available at Bar Lewis
Price range: less than $50 - $75 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Sunday
Accessibility: fully ADA accessible
Parking: free lot on-site
Nearest MARTA station: none
Reservations: no
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 1544 Piedmont Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-939-9567
Website: lewisbarbecue.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
About the Author
Henri Hollis is a reporter and restaurant critic for the Food & Dining team. Formerly a freelance writer and photographer with a focus on food and restaurants, he joined the AJC full-time in January 2021, first covering breaking news. He is a lifelong Atlantan and a graduate of Georgia Tech.
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