4 standout dishes to try in December
Elf Forest at Sei Ryu Sushi + Omakase
If you like beautiful whimsy, there is no better way to begin a meal at Sei Ryu than a shared plate called “Elf Forest.” The sashimi dish is a miniature, edible landscape — a stylized forest on a plate. Thin slices of yellowtail are fashioned into curls. The firm, flaky flesh is marbled yet mild-tasting, laid across the chilled surface like sun-dappled stones. Rising from this plane are “trees,” formed from ribbons of crisp cucumber meticulously rolled to stand upright. They mimic saplings, providing textural contrast to the delicate white-fleshed fish. Carrot stars, flowers, spirals of radish and salmon roe dot the landscape.
Citrusy with savory undertones, shiro ponzu (white ponzu sauce) is carefully pooled. It’s a visual journey that culminates in balance: the buttery texture of the yellowtail contrasts with the watery snap of cucumber and saline punch of the ikura (salmon roe), all unified by the bright, tangy citrus depth of ponzu. Plus, it’s deliciously silly.
Sei Ryu Sushi + Omakase. 5163 Peachtree Parkway, Peachtree Corners. 678-346-5774, seiryuomakase.com
Mango Shrimp at Naga Bistro
At Naga Bistro, the Mango Shrimp come to the table sizzling hot, plump and tender. Around the honey-colored curled arcs of perfection is a tamarind-mango glaze flecked with chile flakes. It’s a sauce that is thick, sweet, savory and tangy all at once: tamarind offers a fruity tang with slightly earthy notes, hints of fish sauce build the glaze to a rich umami and lime juice brings bright acidity.
The thrill of this dish is the transformation of the shells from a nuisance into the crispiest, most satisfying part. When you bite them, the entire shrimp — shell and all — shatters like a potato chip with a glorious crackle. The edible shell adds a concentrated boost of shrimp flavor, leading to succulent meat inside. A tangy sauce clings to the brittle, golden brown armor; sop it up with sticky rice.
Naga Bistro. 2201 Savoy Dr., Atlanta. 770-451-3880, nagabistroatl.com
Grouper with Coconut Collard Greens at Miller Union
Do not let the plain menu description (“daily fish, coconut collard greens, parsnip, mushrooms, chutney”) fool you. What’s served is a tropical taste trip via Southern vegetables and line-caught Florida yellow edge grouper. It begins with chef de cuisine Jay Felton’s light curry with onion, garlic, ginger, coconut milk, lemongrass and curry spices. Hickory Hill collard greens are cooked to order in the broth, their bitterness transforming into tender sweetness. The grouper fillet is impeccably seared to a slight crust while remaining flaky within. The delicate fish rests on the softened greens, surrounded by a swath of woodsy and nutty parsnip puree. Scattered throughout the base are generous slices of roasted Ellijay shiitake and trumpet mushrooms, adding a meaty, earthy chew. The fish is crowned with a sweet-tart chutney of apple, persimmon and golden raisins. Crispy bits of shallots add textural elements to each bite.
It’s a dish that perfectly balances the light, succulent essence of the sea with the rich comfort of a Southern harvest. I couldn’t stop thinking about it.
Miller Union. 999 Brady Ave. NW, Atlanta. 678-733-8550, millerunion.com
Fish Sauce Chicken Wings at Anh’s Kitchen
The moment the plate of wings landed — hot, burnished and gleaming — I knew they were remarkable. These aren’t just chicken wings; they are miniature monuments to communal eating, each one coated in a sticky, mahogany glaze that is pure, profound umami. The first bite offers a crackly texture immediately followed by complex, sticky sweetness. Fish sauce is the soul of the flavor, a powerful concentration of savory depth and saltiness. Caramelizing the sauce with a touch of sugar, lime juice and garlic tempers the intensity. A second scorching of the wings achieves a crunchy exterior that defies sogginess. The savory-sweet sticky glaze clings effortlessly, enhancing every bite of the tender chicken.
It’s a balance of sweet and salty, something Vietnamese cuisine is known for. The wings are settled among shallots, scallions and crispy garlic bits, which deliver sharp high notes and add dimension to the funky flawlessness. It’s flavor so intense it demands attention, conversation and a second order. Also, napkins.
Anh’s Kitchen has locations in Downtown, Midtown and Toco Hill, anhkitchenatl.com
