Visit Santiago, Chile, one of three ways: On a budget, spending a bit more or when the getaway calls for a splurge.
The New York Times declared Santiago an unmissable destination for 2011 due to its flourishing arts scene and contagious energy. The city is divided into 26 comunas, or districts, with 11 more lying outside the urban center but within the metropolitan region. Within these lie different barrios, or neighborhoods, each with its own character. Summer months are November to March.
Trip tips: 1,000 Chilean pesos = $2.13 in U.S. currency
Use the prefix 56 (country code) + 2 (city code) followed by the six-digit phone number when direct-dialing.
Getting there: Round-trip rates of $1,288 require a 50-day advance purchase notice; $1,488 with a 14-day notice (7-night minimum stay required). Rates are $1,938 on minimum stays of any three nights (14-day advance purchase). Valid on Delta, nonstop.
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BUDGET
Stay: Meridiano Sur Petit Hotel is indeed petite, but it offers a serene haven in the heart of the city. This unique home in the hip Providencia neighborhood is near the historic center, museums, shops and the National Tourist Office, and it's five minutes to the subway. Rates range from $120 to $170, including breakfast; Sta. Beatriz 256, 235-3659, www.meridianosur.cl.
Eat:
Restaurant Las Vacas Gordas (The Fat Cows) does beef in a big way (there is a limited vegetarian menu). Massive steaks draw patrons from far and wide. Start with a pisco sour, a national drink of distilled white muscat grapes ($2). Lunch for two is about $50, but enough for four; Cienfuegos 280, 673-3962,
Experience: Take an aerial tram to San Cristobal Hill (the teleferico is about $2) and to the iconic 72-foot statue of the Virgin Mary. Take in spectacular views of the city (if it's clear, you'll see the snowy Andean peaks) or take a to-go lunch to enjoy in the picnic park. The tram makes several stops along the way. Try to jump off for a look around each neighborhood. Back down, most of the activity of the city takes place in and around the main square, Plaza de Armas. That's where to hook up any day (10 a.m. or 3 p.m.) to join in a free, four-hour walking tour of the city. Learn about past and present Chile along a path of the most significant points of interest. Reservations not required (look for the guide wearing a red "FREE TOUR" T-shirt in front of the Catherdral of Santiago); www.freetoursantiago.cl.
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MODERATE
Stay: Family-owned and operated Hotel Bonaparte is on a quiet street in the Providencia neighborhood and close to the downtown area. It's also within walking distance to the rapid transit system. This 3.5-star boutique property features a restaurant, a cafe, a snack bar, an outdoor pool with a bar, and a full-service spa. Room rates, including buffet breakfast, range from $130 to $170; Mar del Plata 2171, 796-6900, www.bonaparte.cl.
Eat: Casaluz Restaurant is located in the trendy Lastarria neighborhood, a 10-minute walk to a metro stop and close to Parque Forestal, an urban park in the historic downtown. Starters/tapas range from $5.75 to $12; entrees up to $26; Av. Italy 805, 918-7204, www.casaluzrestaurant.cl.
Experience: Travel on a guided tour into the Andes toward Siete Tazas (Seven Cups) National Park and to admire the rivers, mountains, lush rain forest, waterfalls and an ancient forest. This full-day trip (three hours south of Santiago) is about $140 per person and includes transport from/to hotels and a barbecue (bring trekking shoes, bathing suit, towel, sandals); www.andoandes.cl/siete-tazas.
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SPLURGE:
Stay: Noi Vitacura offers chic and spacious accommodations with electric curtains and Italian robes. Two restaurants and two lounges are on-site. Rates start at $279, including breakfast. The hotel is in the fashionable Alonso de Cordova neighborhood and a short walk to Parque Bicentenario, a park with more than 30 hectares of lagoons, native flora and walking paths; Av. Nueva Costanera 3736, 941-8000, www.noivitacura.cl.
Eat: Find international cuisine from China, Congo, India, Italy, Jordan and Laos at exotic Zanzibar. This Moroccan-inspired spot fuses international tastes in tapas to entrees (up to $32). Catch a sunset and evening breezes from the rooftop lounge; San JM Escriva de Balaguer 6400, 218-0118, www.zanzibar.cl.
Experience: One of the most important historic and religious sites in the city is the 16th-century Iglesia de San Francisco, the city's oldest church. Inside is an art museum that houses some of the most exquisite paintings from the School of Cuzco. For a day out, visit San Francisco Glacier inside the El Morado natural monument and about 60 miles from Santiago. It's one of the most attractive tourist sites, offering horseback riding, more than 300 plant species and extensive bird life. Enjoy a semi-private day trip to the Casablanca and San Antonio valleys on a wine-tasting tour with a gourmet lunch. The region is surrounded by the hills of the Coastal Range and near the Pacific coast; $195 per person, including transport from/to hotels; 981-6242, www.uncorked.cl.
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