RECIPE: Give kohlrabi a Mediterranean makeover
Variety is one of the many pleasures of a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) subscription. Compared to the year-round homogeneity of grocery store produce, a weekly CSA basket can mean atypical crops that offer diversion for the home cook and a bit of intrigue for the table.
I recently unpacked my CSA delivery to find a big bulb of kohlrabi, a lesser-known member of the cabbage family. While sifting through some trusty veg-forward cookbooks for inspiration, I landed on one in Clifford A. Wright’s A-to-Z veggie culinary reference “Mediterranean Vegetables” (Harvard Common Press, 2001). The recipe, with origins in Chieti in the Abruzzi region of central Italy, calls for boiling the brassica slices; marinating them in a lemony, olive oil mix; and finally, battering and frying them.
Chieti-style kohlrabi was pleasing, but I prefer minimal intervention with farm-fresh produce. Plus, summer is not my favorite time to stand over a hot stove and deep-fry anything.
The recipe below omits the batter-and-frying steps all together. Once cooked, the kohlrabi is tender yet still firm. After bathing in an olive oil marinade for an hour, it soaks up sunny lemon notes, but stays light instead of being weighted down by batter and frying oil.
Treat this as a side dish or serve as part of an antipasto platter. Baguette slices are lovely for dipping in the lemon-herb oil.
- 1 pound kohlrabi (see note)
- 1 tablespoon salt, plus more for marinade
- 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- Juice of 2 lemons (about 1/4 cup)
- 1/3 cup chopped parsley leaves
- If the kohlrabi has leaves, remove the leaves (reserve for another use). Peel the bulb and cut into 1/2-inch-thick round slices. Cut the slices into 1/2-inch strips, like thick-cut fries.
- Fill a large saucepan with 2 quarts water and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil. Add the kohlrabi slices and cook until tender but still firm, 15 minutes. Drain.
- In a medium bowl, stir together the olive oil, lemon juice, parsley and salt to taste. Add kohlrabi and mix gently to coat the kohlrabi in the marinade. Let sit 1 hour at room temperature.
- Transfer to a serving bowl. Serve with crusty bread for scooping the kohlrabi and dipping in the oil. Serves 3-4 as a side dish or appetizer.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving, based on 3: 260 calories (percent of calories from fat, 80), 3 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 24 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 675 milligrams sodium.Note: Find kohlrabi at Buford Highway Farmers Market, 5600 Buford Highway, Doraville; 770-455-0770, aofwc.com.
Adapted from “Mediterranean Vegetables” by Clifford A. Wright (Harvard Common Press, 2001).
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About the Author
Ligaya Figueras is the AJC's senior editor for Food & Dining. Prior to joining the AJC in 2015, she was the executive editor for St. Louis-based culinary magazine Sauce. She has worked in the publishing industry since 1999 and holds degrees from St. Louis University and the University of Michigan.
