At Dunwoody’s E. 48th Street Market, Charlie Augello has been serving his Italian family’s recipes — as well as selling high-quality items from the motherland — for 38 years. I selected a sandwich written on the daily chalkboard, popped the paper-wrapped, forearm-sized hero in my bag and hit the road.

What I unwrapped later was a treasure. The Italian roll — they’re made fresh daily — was perfectly crisp yet had a pillowy-soft interior. It was heaped with sliced, roasted pork that was well-seasoned, tender and juicy. The provolone slices I had watched them slice now were gooey. I could taste a drizzle of high-quality olive oil that had a fruity richness. And there was a topping of chopped, hot-pepper relish. The tangy mélange had a spicy crunch.

This sandwich is greater than the sum of its parts. The complementary flavors dazzle, as does a bite into that airy, chewy bread. I would drive in I-285 traffic for this.

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Cremalosa owner Meridith Ford relocated her gelato shop to Avondale Estates this month. (Courtesy of Heidi Harris)

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