4 restaurant dishes that taste like fall

I stumbled upon Koochini Persian Kitchen because it lies on the convenient I-85 access road. I left feeling as if I had traveled to Persia and enjoyed kashk-e bademjan while Iranian music filled the small space. The enduring appeal of this dip/appetizer lies in its transformation from a humble vegetable into a tapestry of complex flavor. The bademjan (eggplant) is roasted until the vegetable’s flesh collapses into a smoky, silky puree. The richness of the deep, earthy foundation is cut by kashk, tangy fermented yogurt whey. This introduces a salty-sour note against the savory depth. Caramelized onions provide sweetness.

This velvety mezze is served with freshly made taftoon, a thin flatbread thicker and softer than lavash. It’s warm and chewy, with dimples that make it the perfect vessel to deliver bites of tangy richness with hints of smoke. Piles of mint and basil accompany the creamy eggplant. I continued to sample it, thankful I had taken a shortcut that brought Persian flavor to my palate. Note: There are only a few tables inside.

3781 Presidential Pkwy, Atlanta. 678-915-2121, koochinikitchen.com.

Yaki Zakana at Enso Izakaya

Embracing the best of Japanese yakitori (grilled meat) restaurants while adding a bit of flair, like the LED dining room ceiling, Enso Izakaya is dedicated to grilled meat skewers. Their sublime tastiness results from a minimal preparation and reliance on pristine binchotan, white oak charcoal that burns cleanly at ultrahigh heat.

A board near the open kitchen lists daily fish for this preparation. I ordered baby black cod and was delighted when the server delicately took the fish from the skewers. The intense heat sears the exterior of the fish, locking in moisture, ensuring tender flesh inside, contrasted with beautiful and crisp skin. The meaty fish was slightly perfumed with the natural smoke but not overpowered by it. The smoky depth, juicy texture and simple seasoning (a bit of salt) made every bite a clean, primal pleasure of natural flavor.

6 Olive St., Avondale Estates. 404-855-5340, ensoatl.com

Kraken Salad at Dead End Drinks

The Kraken Salad at Dead End Drinks isn’t made from the tentacles of a mythological sea monster, but there is fabulousness in the combination of unexpected flavors and textures. The morsels of octopus (there are many in this salad) have a meaty, tender inside and contrasting exterior smoky char with a slight chew.

The rich octopus meets the earthy starch of confit potatoes. Cooked slowly in fat, they are golden brown with a creamy interior that melts with the touch of the tongue. The addition of lightly pickled fennel brings a bright, licorice crunch. Dressed simply with a tangy orange and herb vinaigrette, it becomes vibrant. It’s Mediterranean rustic, healthful but comforting, with differing bites ranging from tender to crisp, earthy to oceanic, smoky to citrus.

130 Arizona Ave. NE, Atlanta. 678-974-8380, rationanddram.com

Veal Saltimbocca at Sugo

Autumn is the featured ingredient in Sugo’s Veal Saltimbocca. The traditional veal is pounded thin and cooked in white wine and butter for a delicate and mild flavor. Each piece has the expected draping of salty-savory prosciutto (Sugo uses 24-month prosciutto di Parma) and is crowned with fragrant sage.

But what stands out is the squash. Sugo sources heirloom North Georgia roasters, prized for being as sweet, nutty and creamy as they are huge. The beauties are presented two ways: roasted on the side and pureed in a large swoosh on the plate. The roasted nuggets are topped with local shiitake and oyster mushrooms from Ellijay Mushrooms. All together, the saltimbocca is a balance of savory, herbal and saline notes with a pan sauce that is a glimmering and concentrated essence of the dish’s core flavors. Saltimbocca translates from Italian to “jumps in the mouth,” which is precisely what you want it to do.

10305 Medlock Bridge Road, Johns Creek, 770-817-8000, sugorestaurant.com