In Miami, Cuban culture, no passport required

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A sign along Calle Ocho, the heart of Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood. Viernes Culturales, a Friday night block party held monthly here, is a showcase for the art, music and food of this proud Cuban-American enclave — but proposed zoning changes could imperil Calle Ocho’s historic character. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

Los 3 de la Habana gets dancers going at Hoy Como Ayer, a lounge on Calle Ocho, the heart of Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood, March 26, 2016. The slightly kitschy club, which features Cuban and Cuban-American acts, is part of an arts renaissance along the famed Calle Ocho strip. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

A vintage Chevrolet parked outside the Cubaocho Museum and Performing Arts Center on Calle Ocho, the heart of Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood. Cubaocho is the linchpin of the arts renaissance now flourishing in Little Havana; its president, Roberto Ramos, owns the 1957 Chevy. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

The Cubaocho Museum and Performing Arts Center on Calle Ocho, the heart of Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood. Cubaocho, which has one of the largest private collections of Cuban-American art in the world, is the linchpin of an arts renaissance now flourishing in Little Havana. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

An open-air stage at Ball & Chain, a modern take on the classic Cuban nightclub, on Calle Ocho in Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood. The original Ball & Chain once boasted headliners like Billie Holiday and Count Basie; re-opened in 2014, it now draws a millennial-heavy crowd. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

The Versailles Restaurant, which opened in 1971 on Calle Ocho in Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood. Versailles quickly became the gathering place for Cuban exiles and remains to this day the place local news media use as a backdrop for political events. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

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A sign along Calle Ocho, the heart of Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood. Viernes Culturales, a Friday night block party held monthly here, is a showcase for the art, music and food of this proud Cuban-American enclave — but proposed zoning changes could imperil Calle Ocho’s historic character. (Hunter McRae/The New York Times)

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