RECIPES: Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day pub-style
The Irish pub is one of the great hallmarks of Irish culture. But as the book “Irish Pubs in America” (Deeds Publishing, $49.95) highlights, they’ve become a fixture from New York City to Honolulu, too. What’s more, Americans now celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with a partying fervor not found anywhere in Ireland.
Dubliner Ian Macken has worked in Irish pubs all over the world, including Fado in Buckhead and Meehan’s in downtown Atlanta. But in 2020, Macken opened Wheelhouse Craft Pub and Kitchen in Decatur.
Partnering with his wife, Kathryn, his brother Rob, and Rob’s wife, Stephanie, the four took over the former Maddy’s Rib Joint space on Scott Boulevard, and transformed it into their vision of a modern Irish pub.
“You had the breakout of the Irish pubs in the 1990s, with Fado and others, and some of the food was elevated pub grub. That’s how we thought about Wheelhouse,” Macken said. “We are Irish. I’ve been in Irish pubs 20 years over here. But this one is different. We said, ‘Let’s not be too Irish.’ You won’t see the diddly diddle, shamrocks and leprechaun-on-the-wall thing.”
While there’s Guinness on tap, poured through a dedicated nitrogen generator, there’s plenty of beers from nearby Atlanta breweries, as well.
“We’re doing the authentic Irish pub, thinking back to our locals in Dublin, so we wanted to do a local here in Decatur, and have local beer,” Macken said. “We are locals. I’m half a mile that way. Rob’s a half a mile the other way. And this is our local. Also, our wives are American, so there’s a little bit of everything.”
Describing the menu, Macken compares and contrasts its mix of Irish staples like fish and chips with surprising stuff like fried mac and cheese, and even keto, gluten-free and vegetarian options.
“It’s Irish-inspired, but there’s stuff on the menu you’d never see in Ireland,” he said. “God knows, I’d never eaten cauliflower Parmesan mash when I was in Ireland. Or the Nashville hot chicken sandwich. We came up with the Macken cheese balls to have a little fun. And then we’re slinging pints and frying burgers like every other bar is.”
For St. Patrick’s Day, Wheelhouse will throw a bit of a party, but it will be fairly low-key. The kitchen came up with a special bread pudding spiked with Slane Irish Whiskey, and there will be some live music, along with a few drink specials.
“That holiday exists over here in Chicago and Savannah and Boston,” Macken said. “It’s funny. We went to parades, because we had the day off, but we still had to go to church. It was never wear green or you get pinched, or whatever that thing was.”
RECIPES
These recipes from Wheelhouse Craft Pub and Kitchen are a good example of how modern Irish pubs mix tradition with more creative dishes and flavors.
Leek and Potato Soup
Rich and creamy, this soup takes the Irish staple, potatoes, and adds the flavors of leeks and garlic. Serve it as a starter, or for lunch, plain, or garnished with cheddar cheese and chives.
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 cup of leeks, cleaned and chopped
- 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
- 6 russet potatoes, peeled and diced
- 3 cups water
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons black pepper
- Salt to taste
- Shredded cheddar cheese, for garnish (optional)
- Chives, for garnish (optional)
- Heat a large stockpot over medium heat for 1 minute.
- Add the vegetable oil. When it is warm, add leeks and garlic, and saute until soft and lightly browned, about 3 minutes.
- Add the diced potatoes and the water. Bring to a boil and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
- Add heavy cream, black pepper, and salt to taste.
- Lower the heat and simmer for 10 more minutes.
- Blend with an immersion blender until smooth and creamy.
- Garnish with cheddar cheese and chives if desired. Makes 8 servings.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving: 371 calories (percent of calories from fat, 59), 6 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber, 25 grams total fat (14 grams saturated), 67 milligrams cholesterol, 45 milligrams sodium.
Ale Battered Fried Fish
Coated in a batter of tempura flour and pale ale, this take on fried codfish comes out crunchy, and is perfect served with fries and slaw.
- 16 ounces vegetable oil, for frying
- 1 bag tempura flour, such as Kikkoman extra crispy batter mix
- 16 ounces of cold pale ale
- 2 (12-16 ounces total) cod fillets, patted dry with paper towels
- In a large frying pan, heat the oil to 350 degrees.
- In a large bowl, mix 1 cup tempura flour with half the beer and whisk with a fork. Add more flour and beer as needed to make a thin, bubbly batter.
- Dip the fillets in the batter, coating both sides, and place the fillets in the frying pan.
- Fry the fillets, turning once, until golden brown on each side.
- Serve immediately with coleslaw, tartar sauce, lemon wedges and french fries. Serves 2.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving: 767 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 37 grams protein, 50 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 44 grams total fat (7 grams saturated), 73 milligrams cholesterol, 95 milligrams sodium.
Irish Bread Pudding
The Wheelhouse kitchen St. Patrick’s Day special bread pudding gets its heady flavor from a wee bit of Irish whiskey.
- 1 quart heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- 1/8 cup Irish whiskey
- 1 cup white sugar plus more for coating, divided
- 10 egg yolks
- 1 tablespoon cinnamon
- 1 loaf Texas toast, such as Sara Lee
- Heat oven to 325 degrees.
- In a large saucepan, add the heavy cream, vanilla extract, whiskey and 1/2 cup sugar and bring to a boil.
- In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cinnamon and remaining 1/2 cup sugar until smooth.
- Slowly pour the cream mixture into the egg yolk mixture, stirring with a spoon as you pour.
- Cut up all the pieces of Texas toast into medium-sized cubes and place in a large bowl.
- Pour the egg/cream mixture over the bread and mix it thoroughly.
- Cover and let it rest for up to 30 minutes.
- Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with baking spray and lightly coat with sugar.
- Pour the bread pudding mixture into the loaf pan, spread evenly and cover with aluminum foil. Place the loaf pan in the middle of a large baking pan. Pour hot tap water into the baking pan up to 1 inch below the top of the loaf pan and place the baking pan on the middle rack of the oven.
- Bake for 45 minutes.
- Remove from the oven and let the pudding cool completely before cutting.
- Serve topped with whipped cream or ice cream. Makes 8 servings.
Nutritional information
Per serving: Per serving: 786 calories (percent of calories from fat, 58), 13 grams protein, 70 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 52 grams total fat (29 grams saturated), 365 milligrams cholesterol, 423 milligrams sodium.Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter
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