Eating cheese for dinner is something I don’t do often enough. It makes for a versatile meal — cheese pairings are seemingly infinite — and is equally satisfying whether you serve standard grocery store cheddar with grapes and crackers or muster enough energy to make an elaborate multi-cheese platter, complete with dips and spreads.

This week’s recipe is somewhere in between. Cut into thick slabs, pan-fried in olive oil and eaten with a fork and a knife, halloumi makes cheese-for-dinner feel even more like a complete meal. I pair it with thin slivers of butternut squash, which I cook under the broiler while frying the cheese. (To make it quick to prep the squash, buy a specimen with a long neck. Use the neck for this recipe, and don’t even bother peeling it. Save the seed-filled bottom for another use.)

To further develop flavor in the dish, I quickly fry walnuts in olive oil before using that same oil to fry the cheese. You’ll get nuttiness in every bite. For an herbaceous fall punch, I scatter the finished dish with chopped fresh sage. The zest and juice of a large lemon bring a final note of freshness and acidity.

The final dish looks dinner-party worthy — indeed, you could serve it as part of a Thanksgiving spread— but is comforting enough to satisfy that cheese-for-dinner itch.

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Toi Cliatt, Trina Martin and her son, Gabe Watson, say they were traumatized when an FBI SWAT team raided their Atlanta home by mistake in 2017. (Courtesy of Institute for Justice)

Credit: Courtesy Institute for Justice