The trendy Nashville hot oyster po’boy at Bon Ton certainly is good, but there’s an even better sandwich on the menu: the blackened catfish banh mi.

The catfish, coated with the vivid, prickly flavors of blackening spices, makes an excellent filling. Almost overpowering on its own, the filet nestles perfectly into the tender French bread. Pickled vegetables and cooling cilantro provide counterpoints to the spicy, juicy fish, while nuoc cham aioli provides a little richness and funk.

It’s an incredibly balanced, well-rounded sandwich that is packed with flavor. Plus, it’s a bargain — a whole sandwich has two generous catfish filets and costs $15, the same price as the oyster po’boy. Actually, the half banh mi for $10 is likely to be plenty of sandwich for most people.

For a true sandwich connoisseur, this catfish banh mi is a treat.

Bon Ton. 674 Myrtle St. NE, Atlanta. 404-996-6177, bontonatl.com.

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